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Buccellati Gives Torsadé a Fresh Twist

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If high gold prices were supposed to make us want less gold, somebody forgot to tell the jewelry world. The appetite for substantial, tactile, noticeable jewelry hasn’t disappeared just because the price of the material has climbed—in fact, jewelry brands (and their customers) are largely embracing it. Which makes Buccellati’s latest evolution of its Torsadé collection especially well timed.

The collection takes its name and form from the torsadé, a centuries-old twisted-rope motif found in art and architecture. It isn’t new territory for the house: Mario Buccellati began experimenting with twisted forms in silver in the 1920s and brought the idea into jewelry in the 1950s. His son Gianmaria developed the motif further in the 1970s, combining yellow and white gold—and sometimes yellow, white, and pink gold—with Buccellati’s signature hand-engraving.

Buccellati Torsade earrings
Torsadé earrings in 18k yellow and white gold with 0.86 ct. t.w. diamonds, price on request

Today, third-generation jeweler and honorary president and creative director Andrea Buccellati has pushed the idea forward again. The newest Torsadé pieces pair the house’s silky rigato engraving featuring curved bands of diamonds with rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces offered in yellow gold, white gold, and two-tone combinations.

It’s those two-tone pieces that feel freshest. After years of yellow gold dominating the conversation, white metals are beginning to creep back into fashion—and for anyone not quite emotionally prepared to abandon warm gold altogether, two-tone jewelry offers a very convenient gateway. If my time at JIS Miami was any indication, mixed metals aren’t going anywhere. They also make an existing jewelry wardrobe considerably easier to negotiate: The yellow gold loyalist suddenly can wear that white metal watch or inherited platinum ring without feeling as if they forgot to coordinate. Torsadé does that mixing for you, in a way that looks intentional rather than transitional.

Buccellati Torsade necklace
Torsadé necklace in 18k yellow and white gold, price on request

Despite the pieces’ thick, heavy aesthetic, they’re no stiffs. As Buccellati explains, its necklaces and bracelets contain an invisible internal linking system that allows the individual elements to move independently and follow the body—a bit of engineering hidden beneath all that spiraling gold that might surprise the wearer to touch.

“With the Torsadé collection, we wanted to explore the inherent beauty of movement and form,” Andrea Buccellati said in notes on the collection. “Each jewel is an ode to fluidity and lightness, while preserving the strength and refinement that have become synonymous with our maison.”

Buccellati Torsade ring
Torsadé ring in 18k yellow and white gold with 1.26 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request

The timing feels right heading into the holidays, too. Customers may be thinking more carefully about where they spend, but substantial jewelry with a clear point of view still has a way of making its case—especially when the craftsmanship is this recognizable.

Torsadé also hits a few things retailers are already seeing: a continued appetite for bold gold, more interest in mixed metals, and pieces that feel distinctive without being difficult to wear.

A jewel from the Torsadé collection is no impulse buy; its retail pricing ranges from $5,000 to $92,000. But as consumers with the means seek significant options for gifting (or even self-purchasing), Buccellati presents a worthy choice. And with a century of design history to back it up, these elegantly twisted designs can’t be denied.

Top: Torsadé bracelet in 18k yellow and white gold with 2.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request; Buccellati

By: Brittany Siminitz

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