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Audemars Piguet Introduces Its Iconic Royal Oak in High Jewelry

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Audemars Piguet (AP) on Oct. 2 debuted its Royal Oak high jewelry collection, its first foray into fine jewelry and a move that pushes its signature style into a new lane for the venerable watchmaker.

Early reviews for the Royal Oak collection—which includes earrings, cuffs, a choker, and two stunning necklaces—are positive. The brand’s move will serve as a showcase for one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces rather than a “volume-driven approach,” AP CEO Ilaria Resta said in media reports.

“A gateway to the past and the future, the Royal Oak Joaillerie collection embodies Audemars Piguet’s free spirit,” Resta said in a statement. “Jewelry has always played an important role in the company’s history. Drawing on our long-standing expertise, we continue to explore this creative realm alongside our core watchmaking activity to fuel our imagination, revisit our codes, and enhance our approach to creation and expression.”

Ap high jewelry
Audemars Piguet high jewelry Royal Oak Dream of Joux tie necklace with pear-shape diamonds and snow-set blue sapphires in 18k white gold and blue titanium

The Royal Oak high jewelry collection was developed by AP and codesigned by AP’s Nathalie Barzilay. The collection introduces the Haute Joaillerie Risoud Eclipse, the Dream of Joux, and a Frosted Gold series. Each jewelry piece reflects the Royal Oak’s most distinctive features, especially its bracelet, and nods to the Vallée de Joux, where AP started in 1875.

“These versatile designs disrupt traditional high jewelry and open up new avenues of creative expression,” AP said in a statement. “Its pattern of sculpted links plays with proportions, texture, and light, while metaphorically connecting past and future, watchmaking and jewelry, technical precision and artistic freedom.”

The Royal Oak dates back to 1972 when jewelry and watch designer Gérald Genta introduced the sporty-chic timepiece into the world. Its large body, hand-finished stainless steel, and octagonal bezel secured with hexagonal screws have since became iconic. A women’s version debuted in 1976.

AP cuff
Audemars Piguet high jewelry Royal Oak Dream of Joux Sunburst cuff set with diamonds, yellow and orange spessartite, and yellow, pink, and orange sapphires in 18k yellow gold

“Combining sportiness with ancestral know-how, the Royal Oak was imbued from the outset with a sensibility usually associated with jewelry,” AP said. “By playing with these aesthetic codes, the Royal Oak Joaillerie collection unveils new versatile and expressive designs.”

For example, the Dream of Joux line—with its tie necklace and drop earrings—reflects the Vallée de Joux’s landscape. AP said it achieved this look through how it sets the gemstones, adding depth and harmony to the jewelry.

It represents frozen lakes, night skies, and florals with its white, yellow, and pink gold cuffs that use a palette of deep blue, vibrant green, vivid pink, and sun-soaked gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires, spessartite, tourmaline, amethysts, tsavorite, and topaz.

Ap earrings
You can see the Royal Oak name, a nod to the inspiration for AP’s new collection, on the back of the Dream of Joux high jewelry earrings.

For Risoud Eclipse, the necklace and matching cuff use black PVD titanium links and studs along with brilliant-cut diamonds and sugarloaf emeralds. These gemstones speak to the Vallée de Joux’s sky in the Risoud Forest during an eclipse.

Frosted Gold is a series of cuffs and necklaces made from 18k white, pink, and yellow frosted gold, honoring the Vallée de Joux’s ever-changing appearance throughout the day and into the night. Its decorative pattern was a collaborative effort with jewelry designer Carolina Bucci, who worked with AP in 2016 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak for women.

AP said while it is known for its timepieces, it has worked “hand in hand” with jewelers including Oscar Heyman, Bulgari, and Tiffany & Co. to craft pendant, brooch, and ring watches. It also has developed its own enamel, engraving, and gemstone work within its watches.

“Building on this legacy, [AP] continues to explore and hone jewelry techniques with the Royal Oak Joaillerie collection, which embodies the brand’s free spirit, creative mindset, and commitment to uncompromising craftsmanship,” the brand said.

Top: Audemars Piguet high jewelry Royal Oak Risoud Eclipse necklace with five sugarloaf emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds in blackened titanium and 18k white gold (photos courtesy of Audmars Piguet)

Karen Dybis

By: Karen Dybis

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