Industry

Will ‘The Odyssey’ Spark a Trend for Ancient Jewelry?

Share

The Odyssey, venerated filmmaker’s Christopher Nolan’s new take on the ancient Greek tale, has the potential to be a summer blockbuster—and to set a trend in (very) vintage jewelry.

The movie, which follows Matt Damon as Odysseus on his dangerous voyage home following the Trojan War, comes out July 17. Early impressions have been mostly positive, with some critics’ comments leaning toward gushing.

At The Odyssey’s world premiere in London last night, Zendaya (who plays the goddess Athena) wore a stunning Chopard necklace featuring a 12.37 ct. center diamond plus 76.11 cts. other diamonds. Zendaya also donned diamond studs from Chopard’s high jewelry collection, while costar Charlize Theron (Calypso) wore old-cut Desert Diamond rivière earrings by London jewelry house Glenn Spiro.

But it’s the jewelry in the film that Elle Spurr, a researcher at New Orleans–based antiques dealer M.S. Rau, will be watching closely. Spurr tells JCK she can’t wait to hear what jewelry discussions The Odyssey sparks and to see what M.S. Rau can source for viewers whose interest in ancient-style pieces has been piqued.

Medusa Intaglio Earrings Rau
The carved gemstones in these Medusa intaglio earrings ($34,500) are from ancient Rome; the angel cameos and 22k gold setting are Victorian in style.

“With such an A-list cast, The Odyssey is sure to be not only an epic film but also a major influence on Greek-inspired fashion and accessories,” she says. “At M.S. Rau, we have treasures that are hundreds or even thousands of years old. Yet a film of this magnitude is sure to inspire contemporary interpretations of ancient motifs, from sculptural metalwork and mythological symbols to geometric forms and classical designs.”

The staff of M.S. Rau “keeps a close eye on cultural conversations and pop culture from a marketing standpoint,” says Spurr. “The Odyssey is especially exciting to us because we’re all lovers of classical artistry. There’s something magical about holding an object that was made thousands of years ago and realizing the artistry and technical skill remain as impressive as ever.”

M.S. Rau has handled ancient Greek and Roman jewels, Spurr notes, mentioning as one favorite among them a pair of Medusa intaglio earrings (pictured above). Intaglio is a gemstone-carving technique dating to the 14th century B.C., and the stones in these earrings are more than 1,800 years old, according to M.S. Rau’s website. Spurr loves them because they hold so much history while also being beautiful and wearable.

“Historical jewelry gives a collection a foundation,” she says. “They’re objects that inspired so much of what came later, across countless design movements, and it’s amazing how many ancient designs still look current.”

Once you understand antiquity in a jewelry context, you begin to see its influence everywhere, says Spurr. For example, a Roman carnelian intaglio might inform jewelry designs from the Victorian era, French Empire, Tiffany Studios, and even contemporary artisans.

Dionysus Cameo Ring Rau
M.S. Rau says the cameo in this Dionysus ring ($44,500) dates to the late Hellenistic period—circa the 1st century B.C.

M.S. Rau has a library filled with books, museum publications, and academic resources, all of which Spurr uses in her work. She and the research team also rely on digital archives, museum resources, and academic databases to uncover details that can be shared with collectors and followers of the gallery’s popular social media.

“We’re fortunate to have an experienced acquisitions team that travels extensively to find exceptional objects. Our CEO, Bill Rau, has spent decades developing relationships and a remarkable eye for quality, which helps us find masterpieces that rank among the finest in the world,” says Spurr. “We’re always looking for objects that stand out for their craftsmanship, rarity, and historical significance, and during my time here I’ve been fortunate to work with items I never thought I would see in person.”

Spurr—who, like most of Rau’s researchers, has an art history background—hopes The Odyssey will leave viewers as curious as she always is about vintage pieces.

“I love uncovering the stories behind objects, and my favorite part of the job is piecing together those clues,” she says. “An ancient intaglio, for example, can lead you down so many paths: how the gemstone was carved, where the gold originated, who may have worn it, and what the imagery meant to them.

“The more research you do, the more it feels like solving a historical mystery, and the more connected you feel to the people who treasured these objects centuries ago.”

Top: Zendaya in Chopard at the London premiere of The Odyssey on July 6 (photo: Scott A. Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Karen Dybis

By: Karen Dybis

Log Out

Are you sure you want to log out?

CancelLog out