Melee Heads to Paris With a (Mostly) New Roster of Designers

By Brittany Siminitz | September 29, 2026

Melee is headed back to Paris next week, and it’s bringing a guest list of new exhibitors, from emerging names to jewelers with more than 30 years of experience.

The intimate fine jewelry show returns to Le Marais Oct. 1–5 with just 14 independent jewelers—11 of them exhibiting with Melee for the first time. For attendees, that makes this edition particularly opportune for discovery: The roster spans designers from the United States, UK, and Asia, with varying perspectives and a range of materials from colored gemstone beads and raw gems to faceted diamonds and pearls.

Founded by designers Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann in 2017, Melee was built around the idea of keeping the trade show experience small, selective, and conducive to conversations between designers and buyers. This edition promises to foster that environment in one of the most revered destination cities in the world.

*Keeper of All Treasures charm necklace set in gold–plated sterling silver with carved bone cameo, carnelian, and coral, $990; Hysteria Jewelry*

Among the newcomers is Brooklyn-based Hysteria, designer Jackie Ansell’s wonderfully gothic take on ideas of femininity and constraint. Corsets, padlocks, lacework, and reimagined cameos populate a collection whose maximalism feels particularly well suited to a little Parisian drama.

Ryui ring — *Ring in 18k yellow gold with 8.47 ct. dendritic quartz, $2,180; Ryui*

At the other end of the aesthetic spectrum, Japanese husband-and-wife team Ryui brings a quieter approach, handcrafting its jewelry in its own atelier with an emphasis on Japanese technique, restrained forms, and unusual stones including rare included quartz.

Jane Jones April Rose ring — *April Rose ring in 18k yellow gold with enamel and 2.81 cts. t.w. lab-grown pink sapphires, $13,800; Jane Jones*

For rich color there’s Vazana, the Hong Kong–based studio of Priscilla Vazana, whose one-of-a-kind work centers on natural gemstones; one recent piece, for example, sets an untreated 2.08 ct. Tanzanian pink sapphire with custom diamond detailing. Jane Jones is another statement-maker. The eponymous Los Angeles brand, founded in 2024, has gained a reputation for its fearless use of 18k yellow gold and street-style edge.

Matilde Moon Drop earrings — *Moon Drop earrings in 14k yellow gold with lab-grown diamonds, price on request; Matilde Jewellery*

London-based Matilde Jewellery, founded by Matilde Mourinho, works exclusively with lab-grown diamonds and recycled 14k gold, bringing a streamlined, contemporary counterpoint to some of the show’s more maximalist offerings.

Alice Clarke Falkland Islands earrings — *Falkland Islands earrings in 14k yellow gold with Falkland Islands pearls and natural shells, £2,985 ($3,960); Alice Clarke*

Returning exhibitor Alice Clarke will stop attendees with her transportive creations. Her work draws from the landscapes and marine life of the Falkland Islands and North Yorkshire—think kelp, mussels, wild pearls, sapphires, opals, and aquamarines—and she produces the pieces entirely in-house, from wax model through casting, setting, and polishing.

Tripat ring — *Celestial cocktail ring in 14k yellow gold and sterling silver with 1.2 cts. t.w. London blue topaz and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,902; Tripat Jewellery*

Sanah Khurana, of the Amsterdam-based Tripat, draws on Indian symbolism, nature, nostalgia, and personal stories to craft colorful modern heirlooms that are certain to be Instagram stars this edition of the show.

Nina+Bukvic+Woven+Gold+Cuff — *Woven bracelet in 18k yellow gold, price on request; Nina Bukvic*

Then there’s Nina Bukvic, another Melee newcomer whose presence gives this edition a nice bit of perspective. The London jeweler has been working independently for some 30 years, hand-making sculptural pieces from fine gold wires, delicate chains, and diamonds.

Bukvic will be the subject of the Oct. 1 conversation “Staying the Course,” joined by GoldDust founder Kate Baxter. The discussion promises to get into something jewelry events don’t always make enough room for: what happens after a designer’s exciting early break. Bukvic was picked up by Barneys New York near the beginning of her career; she and Baxter will talk about the pressure that followed, finding and maintaining a distinct visual language, moments of doubt, and what creative success looks like three decades in.

Melee Paris opens with a press and buyer preview Oct. 1, 5–8 p.m., followed by regular show hours Oct. 2–5, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.. at 8 Square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie in Le Marais. The show is open to verified wholesale buyers and press.

Top: Lemon ring with yellow sapphire and two pink sapphire heart insets in 18k yellow gold, $5,450; Olivve