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Kering Names 3 Jewelers to New Residency for Chinese Designers

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Three jewelers are in the inaugural cohort of CRAFT (Creative Residency for Artisanship, Fashion, and Technology), a Kering program to support a new generation of Chinese designers.

Jewelry designers Longhong Ziwei of Soft Mountains, Xu Hao of qiqi, and Yu Gengyi of Midnight Opera House, along with seven fashion designers, were announced as the first CRAFT fellows on Monday.

Kering—which owns jewelry brands Boucheron, Pomellato, and Qeelin and fashion labels Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, McQueen, and Brioni—developed CRAFT with Shanghai Fashion Week. The program will provide participants with hands-on learning and mentorship in business development.

Kering said CRAFT is aimed at supporting the growth of Chinese brands that are rooted in culture but also could have global impact. Many fellows in the first cohort showed how they connect their Chinese heritage to their work while also pushing fashion and jewelry design forward with their own style, the company said.

CRAFT Cohort designers
Members of Kering’s initial CRAFT cohort: (from left) Yu Gengyi, Xia Rong, Longhong Ziwei, Zhong Zixin, Hu Nan, Cai Jiaen, Qi Yueqi, Wang Fengchen, Xu Hao, and Wei Donghui

Longhong Ziwei was selected, according to Kering, as a distinct voice at the intersection of cultural heritage and contemporary design. Her Shanghai-based brand, founded in 2018, uses now-rare Chinese practices like working with hollowed-out silver beads and layered loose-grain techniques in its minimalist designs.

Kering cited Xu Hao, who cofounded qiqi in 2021, for his modern jewelry rooted in Eastern philosophy, and recognized Yu Gengyi, who founded Midnight Opera House in 2016, for his distinctive design language that incorporates cultural symbolism, like the art deco style of Eastern opera.

More than 100 people applied for CRAFT, said Kering, which announced the residencies in November and opened applications in December. Officials from Kering, the CRAFT advisory board, and Shanghai Fashion Week evaluated the applicants and selected the 10 fellows earlier this month.

“Their creative passion, distinct perspectives, outstanding abilities, and exceptional potential embody China’s new generation of creators. We look forward to meaningful learning and cultural exchange during their residency, and to further strengthening the richness and diversity of the CRAFT creative community together,” said Cai Jinqing, president of Kering in China, in a statement.

Fellows were chosen not only for their creativity, originality, craftsmanship, and product excellence, but also because of their growth potential and understanding of the luxury market, Kering said. As part of their residency, cohort fellows will travel to Milan and Paris, as well as Shanghai.

“I am excited to support the next generation of Chinese creatives and see how they will help shape the future of fashion,” Demna, artistic director of Gucci and CRAFT advisory board member, said in a statement.

The seven fashion designers in the CRAFT cohort are Cai Jiaen, Hu Nan, Qi Yueqi, Wang Fengchen, Wei Donghui, Zia Rong, and Zhong Zixin.

(Photos courtesy of Kering)

Karen Dybis

By: Karen Dybis

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