Research may be Common Era founder Torie Tilley’s favorite part of creating a new collection, and Alchemical Zodiac is the epitome of how Tilley employs thoughtful study to design pieces that stand out from other jewelry.
Common Era’s first zodiac-themed collection, Alchemical Zodiac, treats these jewelry classics in a new way. Tilley describes them as symbols of connection, intention, and the timeless magic of the stars. They feature alchemical seals as described in a 17th-century manuscript.
“I love the ideals these alchemists had about the way the world functions—the unseen forces that shape our fates—and their belief that through research that could somehow tap into and influence those hidden forces,” says Tilley.
An earlier Common Era collection, Esoterica, grew out of research Tilley did on gnosticism. She found the symbols that inspired Alchemical Zodiac while researching alchemy in general.
“I was skimming old manuscripts, and the moment I found these wild alchemical seals I instantly knew it was what I wanted to do for Common Era—zodiac, but with an esoteric and fascinating story behind it,” she says.
Like many jewelry designers, Tilley says her clients request zodiac more frequently than any other motif. But she was loath to send another lion, scorpion, or goat-fish into the universe.
Her seals don’t center on those familiar zodiac-sign associations, but rather on when and how the seals were to be created in ancient times and what properties they hold. For Capricorn, the engraving was to be done under Capricorn’s ruling planet, Saturn, and the seal was to be applied during the waning phase of the moon. It was called the Seal of Favor and considered to have healing properties and symbolize endurance, wisdom, and steadfast ambition.
“My ethos for Common Era has always been authenticity and originality. I couldn’t figure out a way to make my customers happy while also satisfying those principles and staying true to the roots of my brand,” Tilley says.
“It’s important to me that each piece starts with a story,” she adds. “I don’t have the visual design still that most jewelry designers do, so I always begin a piece or collection with a historical idea that captivated me and develop around that. Each piece is very personal to me for that reason.”
Common Era doesn’t follow a conventional calendar or schedule for releasing collections—Tilley says she can’t and won’t do that.
“I tried working with a wholesale/PR agency and there was an expectation for collection previews at least every six months. I’m a small business—it’s literally just me—and I couldn’t simply come up with a full collection because a schedule said I had to,” she says.
“Each collection or piece starts with some fascinating historical story I’ve stumbled upon and they grow from there. I can’t force it, as much as I would like to. I gave up on wholesale and PR after a year and decided to return to only selling through my website, which gives me flexibility and freedom.”
Now eight months pregnant, Tilley is happy to be designing something she enjoys. She created an Ancient Fertility Amulet based on a third-century gnostic concept, and says sharing that experience and jewelry piece with the Common Era community has been one of her most rewarding experiences.
“It was a relief not to have any pressure to put out a collection,” she says. “I’ve been at my most inspired during my pregnancy and here I am launching a collection at 32 weeks! That freedom is everything to me.”
Top: The Libra pendant ($990) in Common Era’s new Alchemical Zodiac collection, which is based on ancient seals (photos courtesy of Common Era)
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