If both white gold and silver are rising in popularity, then that means platinum—the most deluxe white precious metal—is poised for a big moment too. Platinum Guild International (PGI) has been anticipating this apparent shift in consumer tastes, starting with last year’s Platinum Spotlight, which invited some top-tier independent designers more accustomed to working with yellow gold to create pieces in platinum for exhibition at the 2022 Couture show in Las Vegas.
The sophomore edition of the program—featuring jewelers Jacquie Aiche, Beck, Lizzie Mandler, Ondyn, Anna Maccieri Rossi, Jade Ruzzo, Sorellina, Ten Thousand Things, Vram, and Emily P. Wheeler—was unveiled during this year’s Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
Most of the platinum creations were outliers in the context of each participant’s core collection and thus stood out as unique in their 2023 Couture displays. Altogether these platinum jewels formed a kind of connect-the-dots constellation at the show, each a miniature beacon, subtly signaling the white-hot possibilities.
Within this year’s cohort, some designers chose to reimagine their best-known pieces, while others took the opportunity to create brand-new designs. (At least one participating jewelry company, Ondyn, now has plans to make an entire collection in platinum, according to PGI.) The platinum pieces ranged from statement necklaces to cocktail rings to red-carpet-worthy earrings.
For designer Rebecca Zeijdel-Paz of Beck Jewels—whom many editors and buyers have noted as one to watch—the PGI Platinum Spotlight Program presented her first-ever opportunity to work with the metal.
“We created our signature Scúba ring, which is distinguished by the smoothness of its bold ridges, engulfed in a sea of diamonds,” says Zeijdel-Paz. “The shape of this ring was heavily inspired by the mask shapes of early underwater exploration—evoking the laid-back elegance and Caribbean spirit native to Curaçao, our home island.”
“What first caught my attention was the weight of the metal,” Zeijdel-Paz adds. “To me it’s important that my pieces have weight, it’s a very grounding element, and this ring feels very substantial. I also really appreciate the durability of platinum—my pieces are made to be lived in and enjoyed for generations to come.”
Plus, as this designer reminded me, platinum looks incredible with a tan: “It’s the perfect metal for summer.”
I, a committed “gold soul,” am starting to very much agree. Ahead, you’ll see why I and so many others are warming to platinum jewelry.
Top: Bias earrings in platinum and diamonds, $22,000; Ondyn
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