Tennis Jewelry Is Evolving, and the Rivière Is Leading the Way

By Brittany Siminitz | July 21, 2026

Tennis jewelry has a way of coming back around. Every few years, line bracelets and necklaces return to the spotlight, fueled by celebrity style, shifting tastes, or a renewed appreciation for timeless design. The latest resurgence of tennis jewelry, though, is about how the category is evolving.

For decades, the look remained remarkably consistent. Whether you sourced a diamond line bracelet from the mid-1980s—around the time the style became synonymous with tennis star Chris Evert—or decades earlier, you’d likely find the same basic design: a seamless row of round brilliant diamonds, uniform in size and set in understated four-prong or box settings. The focus was on uninterrupted sparkle, with little variation from one piece to the next.

Over the past several years, tennis jewelry has been reinterpreted. Designers are varying stone sizes, mixing stone cuts, and opting for bolder bezels and sculptural gold settings.

That’s where the rivière comes in.

Single Stone Jolene Mirella necklace — *Jolene on Mirella necklace in 18k yellow gold with 16.63 cts. t.w. old European–cut diamonds, price on request; Single Stone*

Fred Leighton riviere necklace — *Signed Fred Leighton necklace in silver-topped gold with diamonds, price on request; Fred Leighton*

Katie Walker white topaz necklace — *Pierced pear marquise necklace in 18k yellow gold with white topaz and diamonds, $6,995; Katey Walker*

While the terms are often used interchangeably today, the rivière predates the tennis necklace by centuries. Traditionally, a rivière referred to a continuous line of gemstones—often graduated in size—that flowed around the neck like a river of light, giving the style its name. The modern tennis necklace distilled that idea into its simplest form: a uniform line of matching diamonds. Today’s designers are expanding the possibilities, embracing the rivière’s spirit of artistry while retaining the effortless wearability that made tennis jewelry a modern classic.

Rahaminov mixed shape necklace — *Mixed shape necklace in 18k yellow gold with fancy yellow diamonds, price on request; Rahaminov*

Jade Trau Envoy necklace — *Envoy necklace in 18k yellow gold with 3.69 cts. t.w. diamonds, $25,750; Jade Trau*

For retailers, perhaps the biggest takeaway isn’t that the rivière is replacing the tennis necklace, but that consumers are becoming more adventurous with one of jewelry’s most storied silhouettes. They want the versatility and wearability that has long kept tennis jewelry a staple—just with more personality, so they don’t end up with exactly the same look as everyone else. Stocking a mix of classic styles alongside pieces featuring fancy-cut diamonds, colored gemstones, bold bezels, or sculptural settings gives customers a broader range of options and more opportunity to express themselves.

Anita Ko Hepburn choker — *Graduated Hepburn choker in 18k yellow gold with 14.8 cts. t.w. emeralds, $60,000; Anita Ko*

Leni James Claudia tennis necklace — *Claudia graduated necklace in sterling silver with moissanite, $440; Leni James*

As the holiday gifting season approaches and demand for higher-ticket, keep-forever jewelry grows, the retailers that offer both familiarity and novelty will be best positioned to capture the sale. The line necklace isn’t going anywhere—it’s simply evolving.