British designer Ruth Tomlinson has been on our radar since 2015, and all of us JCK editors remain completely on board with her raw, handwrought aesthetic and affinity for gemstones that are as far from run-of-the-mill beautiful as you can get. (We called them “gritty-pretty” in this 2017 roundup of some of Tomlinson’s peachy-pink tourmaline and rustic champagne diamond engagement rings.)
And even when the Gemfields mine, famous for its Zambian emeralds, tapped Tomlinson for a collaboration, the designer opted to work with stones that have compelling inclusions, what the jewelry trade calls “jardin.”
“While I’m often drawn to stones with inclusions, or an unusual character or color, I hadn’t anticipated finding something so unique with Gemfields,” said Tomlinson in a statement. “With the help of their team, I found just a few emeralds with the same included quality—the color and the mysterious depth within really captivated me. When I find something so exceptional, it’s an instant connection.”
The result is Jardin, a three-piece suite that comprises a pair of statement drop earrings and a matching pendant necklace and ring. Each design features Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds, their rugged origins left intact—not camouflaged but celebrated.
Thoughtfully chosen complementary gems such as salt-and-pepper diamonds encapsulate Tomlinson’s flair for the perfectly imperfect. The angular antique baguette-cut diamonds are meant to evoke the strata and formations of rock in the Earth’s crust.
The finishing touch: Tomlinson’s signature granulation technique in settings that mix 14k yellow and 18k white gold with an unpolished finish, a look that borrows from antiquity and embraces modernity.
And that green! The entire collection is like a medieval Christmas carol, with all those lilting, complex, almost haunting harmonies.
Top: Two views of the Ruth Tomlinson x Gemfields Sweeping Asymmetric Cluster ring featuring emeralds and diamonds in 14k yellow and 18k white gold, £9,200 ($11,824)
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