
For over 30 years, Pucci Papaleo has dedicated himself to studying, collecting, and photographing Rolex chronographs, helping establish the scholarly vocabulary used by today’s market. This November, 16 watches from his remarkable 70-piece collection will headline Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV.
Spanning from Rolex’s first Oyster-cased chronograph in 1939 through the manual-winding Daytona era, this curated selection is unified by exceptionally rare condition—featuring structured case edges, sharp hallmarks, unpolished surfaces, and authentically aged dials.
Two highly anticipated lots carry estimates exceeding CHF 1,000,000 (nearly $1.2 million). The first is a circa 1941 18k yellow gold Ref. 3830 (pictured at top). Departing entirely from Rolex’s traditional round forms, this 30 mm square, stepped-case chronograph is considered entirely unique, and according to current research, no other Ref. 3830 has ever appeared at auction. Last seen publicly in 2004, it bears the dial signature of Milan retailer Verga.

The second million-franc highlight is a circa 1970 Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon.” Believed to be the only 14k yellow gold example within the 2.3 million serial range, it is very likely the earliest known example of this configuration to reach the market. The creamy yellow dial and case combination is, by Papaleo’s own research, without parallel among known Paul Newman Daytonas.

A Rolex “Stelline” Ref. 6062 in 18k yellow gold is estimated to sell for between CHF 600,000 and 1,200,000.
Other notable highlights include a pristine early Ref. 3525 “Bariletto”—Rolex’s first Oyster-cased chronograph—signed by Australian retailer Prouds; an 18k pink gold Ref. 3335 with a pink Monetti-signed dial; and a stainless steel Ref. 6239 featuring a rare “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial. Each of these three lots is estimated between CHF 250,000 and 500,000.
“Pucci has spent more than 30 years pursuing knowledge and perfection,” said Phillips senior consultants Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, praising his role in giving collectors the tools to deeply understand these historic timepieces, in a joint statement.
Prior to the auction on Nov. 7–8 at Geneva’s Hotel President, collection highlights will tour Dubai, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Riyadh, and London.
(Photos courtesy of Phillips)
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