Observations From The 2026 Melee Show in New York

By Brittany Siminitz | August 11, 2026

Montana sapphires stole the show—as did off-color diamonds—at an event that has grown from 13 exhibitors to over 120.

Although Melee made its debut in New York in 2017, it wasn’t until last week, when the show’s summer edition took place at The Lighthouse at Chelsea Piers Aug. 2–4, that I made my very first visit.

A poor excuse when you’re only a three-hour Acela ride away in D.C., a fairly easy trip that I look forward to making again. The intimate show, with its gorgeous natural lighting and views of the Hudson River—not to mention a glorious group of designers to hobnob with—is one I can’t wait to return to when the next edition rolls around in February 2027.

The show had just over 120 exhibitors, a far cry from its very first edition. It’s still a small group relative to JCK, JIS, or even New York Now, which was running at the same time elsewhere in Manhattan. But a small show doesn’t mean there weren’t trends to spot. While each designer brought a distinct point of view, there were certainly plenty of common threads to pull at.

Dilamani Montana sapphire rings — *Just a peek at Dilamani‘s assortment of Montana sapphires*

Like Montana sapphires. If you needed further proof that Montana sapphire is the gemstone of the moment, a visit to Melee could have easily confirmed it. The gem was sprinkled throughout collections from brands including Robin Haley, Alexis Pavlantos, and Young in the Mountains, while New York–based Dilamani was practically overflowing with them. The brand told the JCK team that it was “fully in” on Montana sapphire, having sold “a ton” at the JCK show in Las Vegas.

“Off-color” diamonds were more “on” than ever, and designers noted a whirlwind change in consumer attitudes toward diamonds. Where once a shopper might have balked at anything less than a VS2/G, these days, it seems, the more included the diamond, the better. Could De Beers’ Desert Diamonds marketing efforts have something to do with the shift? Perhaps. But designers like New York–based sister duo Vale Jewelry and London–based Scottish jeweler Ellis Mhairi Cameron, who has honed a beautifully recognizable sculptural style, have been championing these diamonds in their work well before the current moment.

Melee_Misfit_Annie-Fensterstock-9 — *Locket with 1.73 ct. diamond center stone, price on request; Annie Fensterstock*

The Misfit Diamonds collaboration was another highlight of the show, challenging nine designers to create one-of-a-kind pieces using the company’s “imperfect” stones. Annie Fensterstock came away the winner, with her incredible locket creation pictured above.

Emily Kuvin Kapow bead wrap — *Emily Kuvin‘s long strand of sapphire beads wrapped around the wrist, secured with a magnetic clasp*

A third trend, albeit a niche one, was the magnetic clasp. As someone who wears fake nails for events like these and can’t even dream of fiddling with an ordinary clasp, a magnet feels like the perfect solution. Patricia Arango displayed super-strong magnetic closures on her fabulous lurex-and-polyester-blend bracelets adorned with precious metals and gems. Emily Kuvin, whose signature Kapow design was given the beaded-strand treatment (pictured above), used a magnetic clasp to demonstrate how a wearer could easily double the strand around the neck or wrap it several times around the wrist for a look that is truly (ka)powerful.

Erica Molinari charms — *Erica Molinari‘s incredible array of artifact-like charms, in 18k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver*

Perhaps it was simply the result of having this roster of designers all in one room—many of whom have built their brands around two-tone or dramatically darkened designs—but blackened metals were more prominent than ever. Designers including Emanuela Duca, Erica Molinari, Heather Guidero, Lika Behar, and Pat Flynn all rely on blackened sterling silver to bring contrast to their raw, relic-like designs, resulting in glamorous combinations of materials. Sterling silver may be rising in demand, but blackened sterling offers one of the more interesting avenues for the metal in fine-jewelry design.

Taken together, the trends at Melee felt less like a single aesthetic direction than a continued move toward jewelry with personality: color, unusual materials, tactile details, and pieces that don’t look like everything else in the case.

And if I had to select one item that it felt like nearly every exhibitor we visited had in one form or another, it would have to be the bead necklace. Thin, delicate, colorful, and chic—take this as your sign to order bead necklaces, pronto. There seems no easier gift for the holidays, and with every gemstone you can think of being used, there is a piece for every kind of customer.

Top: Fingers full of Ellis Mhairi Cameron‘s iconic natural diamond rings