The Muzo Emerald Designer Jewelry Capsule Is Uncommonly Beautiful

Between the Diamonds With a Story designer jewelry capsule (with Rio Tinto mine), Gemfields’ innumerable collaborations with various designers (this summer’s earring capsule being one of many examples), and forthcoming partnerships with designers using new-to-market Greenlandic rubies, the premise of Muzo Emerald Colombia’s new designer collaboration program is familiar.

But the fact remains: There’s no better way for a mine to get its material (and marketing message points) in front of consumers.

Last week’s preview of the collection, which encompasses the work of 25 designers and nearly 100 one-of-a-kind pieces, generally promised to be an emerald love fest. And in real life it was more than that: In the wintry light-flooded setting (perched at an angle in one of the 515 Residences, high above New York City’s High Line), the sight of so many Colombian emeralds, in so many shades of green, used in so many different ways, left you in a state of pure emerald ecstasy.

The design quality was just that good, and every participating designer brought a unique perspective, from Alice Cicolini’s Jaipur Bougainvillea ring with its hexagonal trapiche emerald centerpiece and pink enamel blossoms to Coomi’s unmistakable hand in a suite of jewels that showcase the emeralds in glorious settings of 20k yellow gold sunbeams, petals, and fringe.

Alice Cicolini Bougainvillea ring — *Jaipur Bouganvillea ring with 13.26 ct. Muzo trapiche emerald, enamel, and green diamond pavé in 18k yellow gold, £18,600 ($23,500); Alice Cicolini*

Coomi Sunbeam Muzo emerald necklace — *Sunburst necklace with 41.29 cts. t.w. Muzo emeralds and diamonds in 20k yellow gold, $190,000; Coomi*

The one unifying element was the abundance of imperfection—there were no perfectly chiseled and overly polished 1 and 2 ct. oval-, cushion-, or princess-cut stones to be seen. Because this capsule is about designers being inspired by organic material—stormy, variegated slices, trapiches, tumbles, cabochons, and “jellyfish” stones that take the shape of a small gumdrop. As such, the collection emphasizes the diversity of Muzo emeralds and the ingenuity of artists who all possess the ability to unleash the beauty of something raw and unusual.

The full list of designers participating in the inaugural program includes both rising stars and established talent: Alexandra Mor, Alice Cicolini, Ara Vartanian, Coomi, Dana Bronfman, Daniela Villegas, Daria de Koning, Eden Presley, Erica Courtney, House of Meraki, Katherine Jetter, Kimberly McDonald, Lisa Kim, Makal, Mateo, Mercedes Salazar, M. Spalten, Noor Fares, Sandra Dixon, Selim Mouzannar, Spencer Fine Jewelry, The Rock Hound, Venyx, Victor Velyan, and Wilfredo Rosado.

Some favorite creations are showcased below.