In Mariyeh Ghelichkhani’s fanciful jewels, pearls are an essential element, but they rarely stand alone.

“I love to mix pearls with colored gemstones, creating unexpected asymmetry and flowing forms,” the Dubai-based designer tells JCK. “A pearl can soften a design, add movement, or create a beautiful contrast against something more vibrant or sculptural. Sometimes the pearl becomes the star; sometimes it is the element that quietly brings everything together.”

Orchids, and floral blooms in general, are a recurring theme in Ghelichkhani’s work because they embody the same combination of delicacy and strength that she appreciates in pearls. “I wanted to translate that feeling into jewelry, using pearls as the starting point and surrounding them with layers of color, texture, and gemstones,” she says.

Indeed, the beauty of Ghelichkhani’s ornate, unexpected designs lies in their mix of colors and forms. “I have used different pearls to create very different personalities: golden South Sea pearls with warm tones, Tahitian pearls with their mysterious depth, and lighter pearls that bring softness to the compositions,” she says. “I particularly enjoy contrasting them with colored gemstones—tourmalines, emeralds, sapphires, tanzanite, opals, rubies, and garnets—so that the pearl is never simply an adornment but becomes part of a much larger landscape.”

Ghelichkhani, whose designs range from $7,000 to $35,000, is new to the American market. But if her pieces strike a chord, don’t delay. Composed of mostly one-of-a-kind creations, her collection should come with a disclaimer: while supplies last.

Below, Ghelichkhani tells JCK about her Persian heritage; the role her late father, a talented silversmith in Tehran, played in her decision to start her own brand; and why pearls are central to her oeuvre. “For me, the pearl is the soul of these pieces,” she says. “Everything else grows around it.”

What led you to design jewelry?

My journey into jewelry began in childhood, through my father, Abi Ghelichkhani, a celebrated Tehran-based jeweler and silversmith. I grew up immersed in a world of gemstones, craftsmanship, and design. I remember sometimes doing my homework in the workshop, captivated by the scent of molten gold, the rhythm of tools against metal, and the quiet concentration of the artisans. I began to understand that a jewel is never simply an object; it is something deeply personal, carrying emotion, memory, and meaning for the person who wears it.

With the passing of my father, my journey became more profound. I took up goldsmithing to remain close to him and cope with my loss. I soon realized that I had absorbed his knowledge and way of seeing the world of gemstones and jewelry. Everything seemed to come naturally to me. I realized that I wanted to carry that legacy forward through my own interpretation, transforming what I had learned into something personal and contemporary. I eventually started my own brand in 2024.

How would you describe your design ethos?

For me, jewelry design is a way of expressing emotions and telling a story. I am instinctively drawn to gemstones, and the stone itself always becomes the beginning of the creative process. I want to understand its character, its color, its movement, and its energy before deciding what it should become. The design then evolves around that, rather than forcing the stone to conform to an idea.

That is what continues to draw me to jewelry. It allows me to bring together everything that has shaped me—heritage, nature, travel, memory and emotion—and translate those experiences into something tangible. I want each piece to feel alive, to have its own identity, and to carry a story that can continue long after it leaves my hands.

Your pearl jewels are so distinctive. What do you love about pearls?

I have always had a fascination for pearls. They are delicate, feminine, and carry a great and deep symbolism. I am drawn to their natural luster and their organic shapes, how they are formed over years, shaped patiently in their shells and by the waters they live in—their beautiful imperfections, with each pearl having its own individual personality.

All pearls are special to me—the irregular, sometimes spectacular freeform shapes of baroque pearls, the glowing warmth of South Sea golden pearls, the deep and mysterious hues of the Tahitian pearl with its dark purple and green iridescent colors resembling peacock feathers, the subtle yet extraordinary color variations of freshwater pearls, and the delicate playfulness of keshi pearls.

What are your goals in the American market?

I’m drawn to the American market as I think there is a real openness to jewelry that is bold, expressive, and individual. My work can be quite dramatic, and I have always been drawn to creating pieces with presence—large cocktail rings, sculptural jewels, and designs that are meant to be noticed and enjoyed.

What excites me about the American market is the appreciation for individuality. I hope people will look at a piece and respond to the design, the craftsmanship, the gemstones, and the story behind it, rather than simply the name on the box. For me, jewelry should have a personality of its own.

Can you describe some of your newest pearl designs?

“Tulip Unfurling” is about that beautiful moment just before a flower fully opens—the anticipation, the movement, and the sense that something is about to be revealed. At the heart of the piece is a Tahitian pearl, which I love for its deep, luminous character. I wanted it to feel almost like a hidden moon emerging as the petals begin to part. Around it, the 18k yellow gold petals unfold and are set with diamonds, tanzanite, and blue and green sapphires, creating a gradual crescendo of color and light.

The tulip has always had a particular significance for me. It is deeply rooted in Persian art and poetry and carries ideas of beauty, love and spiritual awakening. I was interested in capturing not just the flower itself, but the moment of transformation—the transition from something closed and protected to something open and radiant.

There is also something very human about that moment of unfolding. For me, the jewel is about becoming, revealing yourself and finding the beauty in transformation. I wanted the piece to feel dramatic, but also graceful, with the gemstones and sculpted gold working together almost as a living flower.

The Vesper pendant is a striking piece—a morning glory in twilight tones. At the top, a small bud in blackened gold opens with graduated purple sapphires. A twisted emerald-baguette vine, alternating yellow and black gold, spirals down to the pendant’s centerpiece: a large baroque grey pearl, its irregular silvered surface haloed by oval purple sapphires like a second, fully open blossom. Below, the vine continues with a diamond accent and a boat-shaped black opal standing in as a leaf, closing in a spray of marquise emerald leaves.

The baroque pearl anchors the whole piece—its natural, unpolished form is the flower’s “face,” with the sapphire petals and emerald vine built entirely around its irregular shape rather than a symmetrical stone.

Top: Tulip Unfurling ring in 18k gold with Tahitian pearl, diamonds, tanzanite, and blue and green sapphires, $28,000; Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

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