From Van Cleef to Fabergé, M.S. Rau Makes the Case for Vintage Cigarette Cases

By Karen Dybis | August 05, 2026

In a cultural moment where quiet luxury still reigns and wearing vintage is in vogue, having a Van Cleef & Arpels cigarette case with a fully functioning roulette wheel built into it may be the zealous collector’s ultimate flex.

The Van Cleef cigarette case circa 1935 to 1940 is made in 18k yellow gold and enamel, and its cover incorporates a miniature game of chance into the design. M.S. Rau, which offers the case for sale, says it’s patent marked and one of two known in the world for bearing the French eagle’s head gold mark.

“Pulling that from your bag would be quite the showstopper. And who could resist giving it a spin or two?” says Elle Spurr, M.S. Rau’s researcher and writer who has studied the New Orleans-based gallery and dealer’s collection of vintage and designer cigarette cases.

Another example is its Fabergé guilloché enamel case. Crafted circa 1910 under the direction of workmaster August Frederik Hollming, it features a cobalt blue enamel ground over a deeply engine-turned surface, paired with a diamond-set clasp. Combining the prestigious workmaster, guilloché enamel, and jeweled mounts, it represents one of the most desirable categories of Fabergé production.

Cigarette case Faberge — *Fabergé guilloché enamel cigarette case ($38,500) circa 1910 created under the direction of workmaster August Frederik Hollming.*

Smoking cigarettes may not return as a habit—sorry, Ben Affleck, though you’re still our favorite meme—but collecting vintage and antique accessories for their history, craftsmanship, and value will never go out of style, Spurr says.

Spurr talked to JCK about M.S. Rau’s collection, why someone might want to own one, and how one could use a cigarette case today.

What does the craftsmanship of these boxes tell us?

These cigarette cases are crafted from solid gold, precious gemstones, and enamel. These are materials and techniques that a jeweler would never use flippantly or for an ordinary object. Looking at the intricacy of the enamel work and gem-setting, anyone can tell immediately that these are luxury items. They were expensive when they were made, and they remain extraordinary today. That’s what makes them such wonderful conversation pieces.

Cigarettes used to be so glamorous, and these boxes are so glorious. Why were they made or carried?

Exactly—because they were glamorous. When smoking was a more popular social activity, carrying cigarettes was part of everyday life. One of my favorite aspects of working with luxury antiques here at M.S. Rau is seeing how artisans transformed ordinary, everyday objects into masterpieces. This was something its owner would use multiple times a day and have every opportunity to show off.

From the 1920s through the 1950s, luxury smoking accessories became fashionable status symbols, displayed much like fine designer jewelry. The leading jewelers of the day, including Fabergé and Van Cleef & Arpels, crafted them from the finest materials. These cases became symbols of wealth and sophistication at jazz clubs, dinner parties, and other gatherings. They were much like jewelry, only practical.

If cigarettes are taboo, why would someone want to own a cigarette case?

These objects are links to the culture of the Jazz Age, the Roaring Twenties, and the groundbreaking design movements of the early 20th century, including Art Nouveau and art deco. There are so many reasons someone might appreciate them. Some are drawn to the extraordinary craftsmanship from a time when luxury objects were painstakingly handmade using skills passed down through generations. Others love their connection to history and the glamorous figures who carried them. And, of course, many collectors simply appreciate them because they are incredibly beautiful.

Is this the kind of item that can come back into vogue under another use and what do you think that might be? Or is owning it reward enough?

Absolutely. Their beauty and exceptional craftsmanship make them surprisingly versatile today. Unlike many modern, mass-produced accessories, these were made to last for generations. They make elegant alternatives to a clutch or card case, holding essentials like credit cards, an ID, and a bit of cash for an evening out. Imagine handing someone your business card from an exquisite gold cigarette case. It would certainly make an unforgettable first impression.

Top: Van Cleef & Arpels Roulette cigarette case ($198,500) patent marked and one of two in the world bearing the French eagle’s head gold mark. (Photos courtesy of M.S. Rau)