The Jewelry at GemGenève Is Going to Be Major

Anyone with plans to attend GemGenève next month (lucky you!) should definitely check out the new jewelry trade show’s Contemporary Designer Showcase, an intimate gathering of emerging talent from all over the world.

From Ninotchka Jewels, a Moscow-based design duo weaving complex narratives around demantoid garnets and Siberian amethysts, to Fabio Salini, whose architectural jewels are brought to life in his Roman atelier, the work of these up-and-coming designers is intended to highlight the creativity and originality that keeps the jewelry world vibrant and au courant.

As we recently reported, founders Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah have focused this event on small, family-owned antique jewelry dealers, gem merchants, and pearl specialists, but the inclusion of a Contemporary Designer Showcase means they’re also committed to nurturing new talent and giving voice to new, even radical, ideas and visions.

The special section will entail just nine designers, all sourced by Vivienne Becker, a noted jewelry historian, journalist, and author. Among them is Becker’s fellow Londoner Hannah Martin. The designs below are from Martin’s Somebody’s Sins collection, which explores themes of protection and restraint, brutality and vulnerability, pushing to the limits and then beyond.

Hannah Martin Somebodys Sins Possession ringPossession ring with pavé cognac diamonds in 18k yellow and rose gold, about $10,500; Hannah Martin

 Hannah Martin Somebodys Sins Possession cuffPossession cuff with pavé cognac diamonds in 18k yellow and rose gold, about $17,441; Hannah Martin

The New York–based designer and goldsmith Sean Gilson joins the party with his fresh, graphic approach to shape, form, and material. Here, he uses the shape and luster of akoya, South Sea, and baroque pearls to build structure and texture and explores the natural, organic forms of sustainable coral.

Sean Gilson gray agate pearl and coral cuffGray agate, pearl, and angel skin coral cuff, price on request; Sean Gilson

SEAN GILSON Blue steel ring with Opal and natural black pearls with steel blue diamondBlue steel ring with opal and natural black pearls and steel-blue diamonds, price on request; Sean Gilson

Even though the Beverly Hills–based designer Robert Procop is well established, he, too, will have a presence in the Contemporary Designer Showcase. There he will reveal new additions to Style of Jolie, the capsule line he designs with actress Angelina Jolie.

Robert Procop Angelina Jolie emerald ringStyle of Jolie ring with 11.36 ct. cushion-cut emerald in 18k rose gold, price on request

Robert Procop Angelina Jolie emerald earringsStyle of Jolie earrings with with 22.01 cts. t.w. pear-shaped emeralds in 18k rose gold, price on request

Robert Procop Angelina Jolie citrine necklaceStyle of Jolie necklace with 173.6 cts. t.w. citrines including 161.1 ct. pear-shaped citrine drop in 18k yellow gold; price on request

And as a world exclusive, Procop will reveal the Zahara limited-edition series, created by Procop and Jolie in collaboration with the actress’s 13-year-old daughter Zahara Jolie-Pitt. This charming, youthful series of rings, chain necklaces, and anklets in rose and white gold features a variety of stones, including black spinel, rose quartz, and white crystal.

Zahara Jolie Pitt x Robert Procop AnkletZahara anklet with 4.1-ct. cushion-cut pink sapphire in 18k gold; price on request

For a certain type of customer, jewels that have spectacular gems and the whiff of celebrity glamour are impossible to resist.

Look for the Contemporary Designer Showcase in its own specially designed conceptual space at the heart of Geneva’s Palexpo venue, May 10–13.


Top : Ring with imperial topaz, red coral, and yellow diamonds in 18k yellow gold, price on request, Sean Gilson



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Amy Elliott

JCK Contributing Editor

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