Sneak Peek: 6 Important Jewels Headed to TEFAF New York

One of New York’s most well-attended decorative arts and antiques fairs, TEFAF, opens this weekend in the city’s historic Park Avenue Armory, with its crenellated towers, barrel vaulted roof, and dimly lit Haunting of Hill House-esque entryway.

But there’s certainly nothing to fear while roaming the nooks and crannies of this storied space, especially if you have a passion for jewels of the highest order—particularly signed pieces from the Art Deco era. In this case, it’s smart to make Siegelson your first stop at the show. One of the most respected dealers of rare, museum-quality antique jewelry and objets here in New York and well-known throughout the world, the firm will have several important works on offer.

“Collectors have a strong appreciation and appetite for sculptural 20th-century designs that are beautiful, wearable, and have a strong history,” says third-generation company owner Lee Siegelson, who caters to consumer clients and retailers looking for the consummate examples of 20thcentury jewelry design.

One such piece making its TEFAF debut is the necklace below by Suzanne Belperron. In fact, it’s the first time it has ever been available for sale (Siegelson acquired it from the original family estate).

Suzanne Belperron ruby necklace form Siegelson
Art Moderne bib necklace with ruby and diamonds in platinum, circa 1945; Suzanne Belperron  

Belperron is one of the most sought-after names in Siegelson’s inventory (JCK recently photographed one of the firm’s Belperron brooches for the magazine’s “Estate Jewelry Secrets” article, a sculptural beauty in rose quartz, ruby, and enamel).

Meanwhile, Alexander Calder jewelry is also a hot ticket, and at TEFAF, Siegelson will be presenting the artist’s Six Circles brooch.

Alexander Calder brooch from Siegelson
Six Circles brooch in brass and steel, 1940; Alexander Calder

Interest in Alexander Calder has been on the rise ever since the Metropolitan Museum of Art staged an exhibit of the artist’s jewelry in 2008. Last fall’s exhibit at the Whitney Museum of American Art has further increased the artist’s name recognition among the uninitiated and perhaps heightened the appeal of acquiring one of his jewelry works among established Calder enthusiasts and collectors. Certainly, we have seen the influence of his work on contemporary jewelry designers, but there’s nothing quite like owning—and wearing—an original work crafted by the artist himself, is there?

“The way these masterpieces of jewelry interact with the body is unlike any other art form,” says Siegelson.

Although Calder is best known for his mobiles and kinetic sculpture, jewelry was a métier the artist held dear.

“He made jewelry as a child for for his sister’s dolls,” notes Siegelson. “He often made the pieces to give as gifts to close friends and collectors, so it was very meaningful to him and a way to turn the body into a part of the artwork, which is one of the most beautiful aspects of the jewelry I sell.”

Based on the pieces showcased here, this sentiment extends beyond Calder to other makers and artists in Siegelson’s collection, including the brooch below by Gérard Sandoz, an exemplar of the French Art Deco style who once said: “It’s possible to make very beautiful jewelry simply with gold and to make horrors with rivers of diamonds.”

Sandoz geometric brooch from Siegelson
Art Deco geometric brooch with a polished 18k yellow gold–peaked rectangle detailed with onyx and layered over frosted rock crystal and pavé diamonds set in platinum, circa 1927; Gérard Sandoz

Or this bracelet…

Jean Despres bracelet from Siegelson
Art Moderne wide tapered bangle bracelet in polished silver and black lacquer, 1931; Jean Després, Paris

…or this incredible suite from the most influential Native American jeweler of the 20th century.

Chales Loloma bracelet and ring
Bracelet with turquoise, coral, and sugalite, and ring with stacked turquoise, coral, sugalite, and malachite, both in 18k yellow gold, circa 1975; Charles Loloma


Top: Art Deco bracelet with coral, onyx beads, and diamonds in platinum, with a black enamel clasp, 1922; Cartier Paris


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Amy Elliott

JCK Contributing Editor

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