Designers / Fashion / Industry / Trends

Your Guide to the Hottest Jewelry Trends of 2023


Here at JCK, we’ve admired Randi Molofsky (pictured) for a long time. Before she founded For Future Reference, her New York– and L.A.-brand development agency in 2015, she was a marketing director for the London-based miner Gemfields, a fashion editor for National Jeweler, and an author (The Girl’s Guide to Buying Diamonds).

Through every iteration of Randi’s varied, two-decade career in jewelry, one thing has remained true: She has always—always—had a sixth sense for emerging trends. So it is without hesitation that we tapped her for insights into 2023’s trending styles. Below is a snapshot of all the colors, styles, and gemstones you should consider stocking as we barrel toward the holiday season.

Which emerging fine jewelry trends do you think will be important this summer and into the fourth quarter?

There’s still this really bright color thing happening, whether that’s neon enamel—which a lot of people are still doing—or, if you’re not into enamel, a great way to do that is with interesting semiprecious gemstones. That vibe is especially great for summer, but it’s great all year-round.

People are picking the brightest versions of these stones, such as chrysoprase, but the most vivid version of that. Or they’re even doing a brightly colored jade. Or a kunzite—but, again, the brightest, flashiest version of that.

Mason and Books chrysophrase necklace
Berkeley Small Bow necklace in 14k gold with chrysoprase and emerald, $2,950; Mason and Books

People are liking these bright, unusual colors in fine jewelry because fine jewelry has gotten more intertwined with fashion over the years. And people like Lauren Rubinski are adding pops of color to gold chains and silhouettes we’ve seen before with these bright, juicy pops of neon.

What’s new on the gold jewelry front?

There’s a lot of interest in what people are doing with gold and textures of gold. The question used to be, Do you like it shiny or do you like it matte? But now we’re seeing more in design-driven collections, whether the metal is hand-hammered, woven, or has a sparkly finish.

People used to be interested in design, shape, or stones but the texture of the gold is coming back as an interesting feature. It allows you to open up a little bit more even if it’s just a simple chain. People are still wanting interesting chains.

EDOEYEN bangle
Kong Dai bangle in 14k gold, price on request; Edoeyen

Which existing trends continue to feel relevant?

Editors are constantly reaching out to me about signet rings and pinky rings, which are still a hot topic. We’ve been talking about this for a long time but it’s a trickle-down thing. Pinky rings were a weird thing that dudes would wear back in the day but now they’re part of the lexicon.

Elizabeth Moore Emerald Fairy Pinky Ring
Fairy pinky ring in 18k gold with emeralds, $1,800; Elizabeth Moore

And lockets are popping back into the conversation again. For a long time, maybe it was a gift you’d get for your bat mitzvah or confirmation, kind of a little girl gift, but now designers are doing really cool things with lockets.

It goes back to what happened during COVID, when we saw the importance of keepsakes and things you pass down. In the past, you’d think of one to two designers who did lockets, like Monica Rich Kosann, but now lots of people are doing them. Also, pieces you can put stuff in—like tubular necklaces or poison rings. It’s the idea of being able to lock something away or treasure something.

Victor Mayer locket
Locket in 18k gold with enamel and diamonds, price on request; Victor Mayer

Are you seeing a bigger focus on silver this year?

I’ve been getting more requests for silver. There is definitely a white metal thing happening, whether it’s silver, white gold, or platinum. It’s in the conversation quite a bit. We’re seeing it a lot more on celebrities. You can do more with silver. There’s a lot of red carpet stuff happening with it that’s more fashion-forward. And these things are cyclical. It’s been a while and people are like, It’s a thing now. It started with people doing a lot of things with two-tone and that’s back, and then people are like, Why don’t we just go all the way?

Milamore open rings
En open rings in platinum with 18k yellow gold in 8 mm and 5 mm sizes, $2,850 and $1,800; Milamore

Which colors feel especially fresh?

People still really gravitate toward green; that’s where we see the most purchase power. Having green in your collection is always a good thing. It doesn’t have to be emerald green. Peridot has come back in vogue—kind of that brighter peridot.

Fuli Gemstones peridot nonagon
Peridot from the Fuli Gemstones mine in China

And what about trending gemstones?

I’m thinking back to what I saw in Tucson. There was a lot of moonstone happening. And people still want pearls; that’s probably one of the top five requests I get. Even basic strands. Pearls have gone so unisex now that every editorial request I get, they want a strand of pearls for the guy. People are all about pearls these days.

Mikimoto Akoya Cherry Blossom Earrings
Cherry Blossom earrings in 18k pink gold with akoya cultured pearls, $2,300; Mikimoto

Overall, how would you describe the vibe for 2023?

Edgy. I think we’re seeing an edgier, more dramatic ear situation happening again: the climbers and the cuffs. It’s a less conservative moment. That doesn’t always mean bigger, but edgier silhouettes.

Jamie Wolf mulitcolor necklace
18k yellow gold 16-inch necklace with 2.32 cts t.w. multicolored sapphires and diamonds, $38,000; Jamie Wolf

I’m seeing necklaces get shorter too; not chokers but shorter styles, which is an edgier take than a pendant on a chain. And pinky rings fall in that, too—for a lot of people that feels edgy.

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By: Victoria Gomelsky

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