Diamonds / Gold / Industry

Hancocks London’s Jewel of the Month: Van Cleef’s Cheveux D’Ange 

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The long-established jeweler known for offering some of the finest bespoke, vintage, and contemporary jewelry, Hancocks London is starting the year off strong with its striking Jewel of the Month: the gold-and-diamond fringe Cheveux D’Ange necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels (pictured).

Hand selected by the house’s director, Guy Burton, the necklace excels in its intricacies. Crafted in Paris nearly 70 years ago, the asymmetric collar is made in 18k yellow gold angel-hair threads to form a highly flexible shape that tapers from front to back. The focal point of the piece drips in platinum teardrop and round brilliant diamonds, hanging from alternate threads and graduating in size.

“Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Thread-inspired jewels of the 1950s sought to explore the relationship between haute joaillerie and haute couture,” said Burton in a statement. “These designs include the Cheveux D’Ange or ‘angel hair’ jewels. Fabric and textiles were a continuous source of inspiration for Van Cleef, and this fascination filtered through into their designs in more or less literal ways. This particular piece resembles an asymmetric collar one might see on a dress from this period. The solid gold threads of this beautiful necklace form a surprisingly fluid fringe of hairlike filaments, which flow gracefully around the neck, making it a joy to wear. It is a truly beautiful statement jewel, expertly conceived by Van Cleef & Arpels and executed by the workshop of renowned master craftsman Georges Lenfant.” 

Widely considered an unsung hero of 20th-century French jewelry, Lenfant was also a master at Cartier and other premier Parisian houses. “For many years the Lenfant name was largely unknown outside of the trade, but it is now becoming more widely recognized as a sign of exceptional goldwork and the finest quality craftsmanship. So to have both the Van Cleef & Arpels signature coupled with the Lenfant maker’s mark on this piece really is as good as it gets,” Burton said.

Top: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Cheveux D’Ange necklace in 18k yellow gold and 2.5 cts. t.w. brilliant diamonds, £150,000 ($202,269); Hancocks London.

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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