Designers / Industry

Famed Jeweler David Webb Acquired by Investment Firm

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Middle West Partners, a Boston-based investment firm, has acquired David Webb, the noted American jewelry designer.

Terms were not disclosed. POP Capital co-invested with Middle West Partners on the purchase of David Webb Holdings. Prior owner Mark Emanuel will retain a stake in the jewelry brand.

As a result of the acquisition, James Weiss will become CEO of David Webb. The former Bain & Company principal and Palantir Technologies executive advised David Webb on the transaction and has been involved with the company since 2017.

“I was introduced to the brand through a mutual friend,” Weiss tells JCK. “I fell in love with it. It is an extraordinary house. It is vertically integrated. And it’s just a spiritually wonderful place.

“I don’t claim to be a jewelry expert, but I got to touch so many different aspects of the company, and learn the people and the brand, and appreciate the focus on the workshop and the archives.”

Weiss notes that prior to joining the business world, he worked as a pianist and conductor.

“I like to joke, as a conductor you are the most useless person in the orchestra,” he says. “You have to be able to add value from a strategic and support perspective. That’s my job—to help create a foundation, a culture, and strategic vision for growth for decades to come.”

He adds: “We are focused on very protectively, thoughtfully expanding this American high luxury house. This is not a brand that is going to open 100 new stores tomorrow. There is more opportunity for people to feel David Webb. Growing those individual relationships is how you grow in high luxury. We have to provide something that is special and authentic to this house and our legacy.”

Weiss describes Middle West, the new private equity owner, as “patient.”

“That’s the word that kept coming up,” he says. “Especially with consumer brands, they really believe in having the right time horizon. And when you’re talking about luxury brands, that time horizon is well known to be very long. They saw the same things that I did when I walked in the door—that it is important for us and for America to protect and foster this type of house.”

Ray Simpson, a POP Capital partner who has worked at Harry Winston and is a managing partner of Diamond Asset Advisors, will join David Webb’s board.

David Webb currently has three retail salons, in New York City, Beverly Hills, and Doha, Qatar. Its workshop, archives, and flagship salon are located on Madison Avenue on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.

Founded in 1948 by Webb, the company has long been known for its animal motifs, intricate goldwork, and use of vibrant gemstones.

Top: A David Webb necklace (photo courtesy of David Webb)

By: Rob Bates

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