Britt’s Pick: State Property’s Sanssouci Bloom Earrings

By Brittany Siminitz | September 04, 2026

Some jewels feel vintage because they deliberately borrow from the past. Others somehow seem capable of belonging to several eras at once.

State Property’s one-of-a-kind Sanssouci Bloom earrings can be described as the latter. There’s a wonderful old-world quality to their elongated pear-shape diamonds, black enamel, and dangling diamond fringe, but the design execution is so graphic and controlled that the finished earrings feel thoroughly modern in contrast.

And the color!

At the center of each earring sits a step-cut, pear-shape, honey-brown diamond, its warmth outlined in jet black enamel before giving way to a scattering of bezel-set white diamonds. Brown and black together can be a sumptuous combination, and here the contrast feels particularly effective. The black deepens the honey tones rather than dulling them, while the white diamonds provide both brightness and movement—a successful color trifecta that makes this pair pop.

What calls to me is the fringe. There isn’t much of it—just a few articulated diamond drops—but perhaps that restraint is precisely why it works. The movement gives the earrings a little vintage glamour without allowing them to veer into anything overly ornate.

The design, detailed as it may be, came second to the stones.

“The diamonds came first,” says State Property cofounder Rui Lin. The brand acquired the pair from a longtime friend and diamond dealer, and held onto them before finding them just the right home.

“They actually sat in our safe for quite some time,” Lin says. “We knew they were special, but we didn’t want to design around them simply for the sake of using them. We wanted to wait until we knew exactly what they should become.”

That patience makes sense when you consider the stones. A pair of step-cut pear-shape brown diamonds with sufficiently similar color and character is hardly something a designer can order up on command. In this case, State Property was fortunate enough to acquire them as a set.

“We immediately recognized what an unusual opportunity that was,” Lin says. “With stones like these, especially in a step-cut pear shape, finding two with a similar color, character, and presence is not something you can necessarily set out to do.”

Separating them was never seriously considered.

“We knew that eventually they had to become earrings,” she says. “It was really just a matter of waiting for the right design.”

That design ultimately emerged from State Property’s existing Sanssouci Bloom rings, part of the brand’s Gardens collection and a recurring home for one-of-a-kind gemstones. For the earrings, Lin says the designers began considering how the Bloom idea might translate from the hand to the face, allowing the pears’ shape and warm color to anchor the composition.

The black enamel came almost immediately. State Property has long used jet black enamel as part of its design vocabulary, and Lin says the brand had wanted to explore its effect alongside brown diamonds.

“Their warmth sits beautifully against the depth of the black enamel,” she says. “The enamel traces the shape of each diamond almost like a shadow, sharpening its outline and allowing that honey color to stand apart from the surrounding white diamonds.”

It also makes a persuasive case for treating brown not as a secondary diamond color, but as one worthy of being deliberately designed around—especially given its range of color. “Simply calling them ‘brown’ doesn’t really capture how nuanced they can be,” Lin says. “You can have something very pale and golden, something warm like honey, or much deeper, richer tones.”

For retailers, that variation may be one of the category’s greatest assets. Rather than positioning one shade as the ideal, Lin suggests allowing customers to discover which colors appeal to them personally.

“There isn’t necessarily one shade that everyone should aspire to,” she says. “One person might be drawn to something pale and golden, while someone else responds immediately to a deeper cognac tone.”

Rarity and value can become part of the conversation later. Lin believes the initial reaction should be simpler. “The first connection should be emotional,” she says.

That feels particularly apt for these earrings. The honey diamonds may be the rare part, but it’s the combination—the warmth against black, the sparkle of white, that little flicker of fringe—that makes them impossible to stop staring at.

And perhaps that’s the best argument for brown diamonds altogether: There is no single version everyone is supposed to want. As Lin puts it, the goal is less about telling someone which brown diamond is “best” and more about helping them find “the one that feels like theirs.”

And no doubt with earrings like this, more than one customer will agree it looks very much like theirs.

Top: Sanssouci Bloom earrings in 18k yellow gold and enamel with 2.28 cts. t.w. step-cut pear-shape honey brown diamonds and 1.04 cts. t.w. white diamonds, price on request; State Property