When the JIS Fall show opens at the Miami Beach Convention Center on Friday, Oct. 16, gold jewels will be front and center. Given the metal’s recent volatility, however, exhibitors fall into two camps: Some are leaning into substantial 18k gold pieces that deliver lasting value while others are offering gold in styles that are more budget-friendly, such as two-tone designs or lighter constructions (some are even opting for alternative metals).

Whichever approach they favor, the brands featured below are sure to make a splash in Magic City.

Doves by Doron Paloma

At JIS, the Great Neck, N.Y.–based manufacturer is highlighting its new 18k gold Pouf collection, which debuted at the Luxury show in Las Vegas earlier this year. Featuring soft, inflated forms and unconventional silhouettes, the collection has recently expanded to include more color—think pink tourmalines, tsavorites, and other gemstones. The positive response to the collection has reinforced something the brand has been seeing more broadly, says Yossi Abrahimi, Doves’ director of sales and marketing.

“Customers are increasingly looking for jewelry that feels unexpected, playful, and individual,” Abrahimi says. “What might once have been considered abstract or niche is becoming much more mainstream.

“One of the biggest changes we’re seeing is that ‘different’ is no longer a niche category in fine jewelry,” he adds. “Customers are becoming much more comfortable with unusual shapes, proportions, and color, and they’re actively looking for pieces that don’t feel like something they’ve seen before. For us, that makes this an especially exciting moment creatively. There used to be a feeling that the safest jewelry would always have the widest audience. We’re seeing almost the opposite now.”

Dorian & Rose

The Los Angeles brand is doing well with substantial designs in 18k yellow gold, bezel settings, and old-world coin jewelry, says Tigren Dorian, who is the face of the family business, along with his mother, Rose.

“Gold is the new symbol of wealth, but beyond its value, people are responding to its warmth, weight, and permanence,” Dorian says. “Our focus is on classic pieces that can become family heirlooms: bold bezel-set diamond chains, cross pendants, and 18k gold frames created for antique and old-world coins. There is something powerful about wearing a coin that has already lived a life, was made by human hands, carried through history, and now becomes part of your own story.”

The brand is also seeing more clients gravitate toward natural diamonds in larger statement pieces. “With the value and permanence of gold at this level, the overall movement is toward jewelry that feels substantial, personal, and lasting, pieces meant to be worn now and passed down later,” Dorian says.

Royal Chain

Phillip Gabriel Maroof, vice president of design and marketing at the New York City jewelry manufacturer, is adamant that while customers have expressed sticker shock at gold prices, they’re not shifting to 10k styles.

To accommodate price-conscious buyers, Royal Chain has introduced a line of high-polished, Italian-made bimetal jewelry featuring silver and 18k gold—the latter, Maroof emphasizes, is intended to elevate the perception of the products yet still provide a reasonable price point.

“We call it Lucida, which means ‘shiny’ in Italian,” he says of the collection, which features earrings, chains, and bracelets that start just under $300 retail.

At JIS, the company is also promoting its new Stretch collection of 14k gold styles that expand to fit all wrist sizes, with retail prices starting around $400 for a ring and $700–$800 for the starter bracelet.

In addition to the two new collections, Royal Chain is also highlighting charms, which dovetail with the personalization trend, as well as bread-and-butter styles like classic chains and earrings. “Even with the price of gold going up, people always need that and want that in their stores,” Maroof says.

Inox

Retailers on the hunt for trendy men’s styles for the gifting season will find a robust selection at Inox. The Norwalk, Conn.–based jewelry manufacturer is highlighting its new understated Black Out designs, which appear across multiple collections.

“Instead of bling, we are doing glint—subtle black gemstones on black metal for pieces that command presence without being extremely loud,” Sebastian Velasquez, Inox brand manager, tells JCK.

The brand will also feature its new Golf collection of steel bracelets with lab-grown white sapphires and black spinels in octagon-shape links (look for them at the 2027 PGA Show), an expanded selection of its Mr. and Jr. pieces (including new kids’ sizing for bracelets, necklaces, and pendants), and a new version of its bestselling Miami Cuban collection, now available in titanium.

Inox is also an official giving-back partner of Movember, a global charity movement held every November to raise awareness and funds for men’s health issues. The brand is organizing fundraising events at its retail partner stores next month “to raise awareness about men’s mental health and testicular cancer,” Velasquez says. “Because we are looking out for the bros—both how they look outside as well as how they feel inside.”

Top: Lucida bracelet in silver and 18k gold, $800; Royal Chain

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