Lumière Libre, Alyona Kiperman’s new 18k gold and lab-grown diamond collection, was born from a year spent learning to carve marble in Pietrasanta and cast bronze in a town outside Milan
When asked, the Ukrainian-born designer at Nomis will tell you that sculpture is just a hobby. She has no plans to make it a business.
Yet Kiperman has been immersing herself in sculpture and materials that have nothing to do with jewelry. Her newest collection, Lumière Libre, arrives partially because of this.
For centuries, sculptors have visited Pietrasanta, the Tuscan town near Florence, Italy, renowned for its marble quarries. In early 2026, Kiperman found a teacher there—an older woman from New York who never left—who taught her to work with stone.
She then traveled to northern Italy, near Milan, where she started modeling with clay, following the work through the foundry to select patinas for finished bronze. She’ll return in September to finish what she started.
Enter Nomis’ Lumière Libre
Handcrafted in Italy in 18k yellow, rose, or white gold and set with lab-grown diamonds, the (soon-to-be) nine-piece collection is the first to follow her sojourn through stone and sculpture.
The collection comprises earrings, necklaces, and rings. Each of them are conceived as a spatial composition, making generous use of angles and negative space.
The pieces each take their names from international artists and architects whose handling of space and light Kiperman’s designs resemble, including Ruth Asawa, Naum Gabo, Lygia Pape, Jesús Rafael Soto, and Kengo Kuma.
Speaking to JCK from Bali, Indonesia, where she expects to stay until September, she says these artists’ works fascinate her because they show how it’s possible for light to transmit through complex structures.
“I wanted to convey that same feeling through jewelry—to create pieces with character and structure that still feel light and effortless.”
Yet Kiperman resists attributing the collection entirely to her recent sculpture work.
Sculpture, she says, is more for exercising a particular creative muscle—the more she works it, in whatever material is in front of her, the more it can produce and inspire a mental framework that can be translated into jewelry design.
Conceptualizing jewelry design often can come in the form of thinking in two-dimensions, she explains. But immersing herself in the different, certainly more voluminous, medium of sculpture brings it up to three dimensions.
What sets Lumière Libre apart
In many of her previous designs, Kiperman insisted on jewelry with heft—nothing less than 2 mm in thickness. Lumière Libre inverts this somewhat.
“Now, I don’t know, maybe something changed? I wanted lightweight, but still a piece that would take as much space as possible,” she says.
The collection features designs that hold air and throw reflections, but in a way that grabs attention “without fighting for it.”
Optically, some pieces appear light, but they’re not in a literal sense. The N. Gabo ring, built out of negative space, is crafted from 17.09 grams of gold.
Born in Odesa, Ukraine, and now based in Switzerland, Kiperman built the brand, which she founded in 2020, on convertibility: earrings that become pendants, bracelets that transform into chokers—nearly everything is designed to be worn more than one way. Lumière Libre is the exception. These pieces are fixed, and deliberately so.
Despite openness in silhouettes, Kiperman says she has a specific preference that guides her when setting stones.
“I really like when something is lined. It gives me harmony when something is aligned and in order, you know?” Kiperman laughs, adding that there may be a limit to how far orderliness will go: “Lined…but not square!”
Top: J. Soto ring in 18k yellow gold with 2.49 cts. t.w. marquise-cut lab-grown diamonds, $19,638; Nomis
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