Since joining the Natural Diamond Council as editor-in-chief in 2022, Sam Broekema has brought a fashion editor’s sensibility to the council’s robust diamond jewelry coverage. But when we called him to ask about the trends that caught his eye during Las Vegas jewelry week, he acknowledged that fashion and jewelry diverge in one key aspect.
“The word trend is always a bit difficult when we talk about jewelry,” Broekema, now the council’s global head of creative and content, tells JCK.
“Designers who were successful this year really leaned into who they are, into their own identity and what felt right for them rather than trying to capitalize on any idea or trend,” he adds. “People weren’t being super-commercial or doing things on the safe side because that’s not what’s doing well. What’s doing well is when people lean into attributes that feel unique to the piece and unique to the person. And that’s exactly what we’re seeing in the next generation: People want to wear jewelry that’s personal to them.”
Below, Broekema shares his key takeaways about natural diamonds from Vegas, where, it’s safe to say, he left no stone unturned.
On the trends and themes that continue to resonate with designers and buyers alike
“Western, torques, cords, color, pinky rings, organic silhouettes, the memento mori idea, really bold amulets, and warm diamonds—which have become ever more important, though for many designers, if you look at Khepri or Ten Thousand Things, they’ve been around for a while.”
On the trends he expects to have staying power through the holiday season
“Personality is king. Designers like Marie Lichtenberg, Shihara, Luis Morais—there’s a lot of personality and swagger. Or Dorian Webb—her Harriet Tubman pieces are so powerful. She literally makes me cry. The storytelling that each piece holds and the meaning imbued in the diamonds and the iconography of the designs is so meaningful. Then look at someone like Renna who’s doing hippos. And mermaids. Who does that? It’s taking this relationship with the sea to the next level. It’s not just about a shell, but so much bolder.
“The diamond flames at Francesca Villa were certainly an editor favorite. I wore one of those brooches to give away ‘best in diamonds’ at the Couture awards and got so many questions. Someone who wants to start a conversation about what they’re wearing is going to love them and wear them over and over.”
On which bridal trend seems to be on its way out
“One of the things that doesn’t feel fresh, particularly for bridal, is micro-pavé. Bridal settings have really emerged as a place to show your personality, so anything that feels overly complicated doesn’t feel cool right now.”
On the enduring popularity of antique diamonds
“There’s still an amazing desire for things that show nature’s fingerprints, with all the variations and unexpected colors. And antique cuts especially—things where you can sense the hand of the cutter. That all feels very cool.”
Top: Torque in 18k gold with removable 6 ct. Desert Diamond pendant, price on request; Lizzie Mandler
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