Around the World of JCK in 7 Days: Jewelry Designs From Across the World



Go for the global at JCK Las Vegas, visiting the best international manufacturers and jewelers without leaving Mandalay Bay. No passport required.

We all know that Las Vegas is home to facsimiles of the world’s most touristed destinations: You can visit Paris, Venice, and even Treasure Island in a single day. But if you want a dose of the real thing, simply walk the aisles of the JCK and LUXURY shows at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center.

Home to exhibitors from 32 different countries (including seven firms that have come all the way from the far-flung island nation of Mauritius!), the show offers a global cornucopia of jewelry. The World’s Fair section on level 1 is one way to trip around the world without leaving the show floor, but you’ll find international firms sprinkled throughout the fair. We’ve selected a few of our favorites on the following pages. Bon voyage!

(Above) Veronica wide bracelet in platinum with Ashoka-cut diamonds and melee, price on request, William Goldberg, NYC, 212-980-4343, ashokadiamond.com; wide bracelet in 18k gold with rose-cut diamonds, $130,000, Nina Runsdorf, NYC, 212-382-1243, nsrjewelry.com; bracelet in platinum with diamonds, $76,000, Gem Platinum, NYC, 800-356-3192, gemplatinum.com; ring in platinum with step-cut Golconda type IIa diamond, Art Deco bracelet in platinum with diamonds by Boucheron circa 1929, prices on request, Siegelson, NYC, 212-832-2666, siegelson.com; Omega necklace in 18k gold with platinum and a round brilliant diamond, $56,600, Paul Klecka, Carlsbad, Calif., 858-380-6767, paulklecka.com; kite-shape earrings in 18k gold with diamonds, $14,500, Martin Katz, Beverly Hills, Calif., 310-276-7200, martinkatz.com; anniversary band with diamonds, $16,600, bracelet in 18k gold with diamonds, $87,560, Ziva Jewels, Los Angeles, 800-227-2464, zivajewels.com; Art Deco bracelet in platinum with diamonds circa 1930, $42,500, Camilla Dietz Bergeron, NYC, 212-794-9100, cdbltd.com 

EUROPE

Brooch in sterling silver with titanium and 18k gold plate with a Mabe pearl; $700; Studio Rox, Jaworzyna Slaska, Poland; 48-69-249-5010; adamwyspianski.pl

Austria
Once again, Austrian crystal maker Swarovski is installing its internationally themed traveling exhibit, the World Jewelry Facets platform, at the Plumb Club. The fifth edition of the fashion jewelry collection features pieces from designers including Caroline Néron, Erickson­ Beamon, Oscar de la Renta, and more. Expect a sparkling mix of one-of-a-kind showstoppers and commercial styles—many of which will, of course, be available for wholesale purchase. —Melissa Rose Bernardo 

Belgium
It’s almost an industry cliché: If you want diamonds, go to the Belgian city of Antwerp. And if you want diamonds at JCK, head over to the 21-exhibitor Antwerp Diamond Pavilion located near the Diamond Plaza, sponsored by promotional group Antwerp World Diamond Centre. Antwerp companies exhibiting include Arjav Diamonds, a major sightholder for De Beers and other miners, and Fancy Diamond Group, a niche player specializing in colored gems. It’s quite the variety—almost like Antwerp itself. —Rob Bates

Germany
The Germans are known for their sleek, modern style—think minimalist silver and gold jewelry from ­established designers such as Bernd Wolf—but it’s their expert craftsmanship that keeps clients coming back. Don’t miss the masterfully made guilloché enamel and gold pieces from ­Victor Mayer, or substantial and perfectly executed interchangeable styles from Marcel Roelofs. And for a healthy dose of fashion-forward looks, seek out Gert Hellmuth at LUXURY; you can’t miss his distinctive crocodile finish. —Jennifer Heebner

Cloé ring in 18k gold with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds, 0.79 ct. t.w. pink, purple, and yellow sapphires, and micromosaic; €6250 ($8,680); Le Sibille, Rome; 39-063-751-4156; lesibille.com

Italy
Italy is home to enviable cuisine, wine, culture, and, of course, jewelry. In fact, Italians speak the language of gold as well as their native tongue! Visit the VicenzaOro Italian Club to see incredible micromosaics from Le Sibille, oversize cabochon-cut jewels in contrasting-color gemstones at Vaid Roma, and statement-making gold cuffs with graphic geometric symbols at Maria De Toni. Another must-see: Verdi, for rose-cut gemstone bangles in sophisticated color combinations. —JH

Poland
If you’re not familiar with the design talent in Poland, here’s your chance. The nation’s signature style is something of a cross between German and Scandinavian modern with a healthy dose of Bohemia, thanks to the earthy Baltic amber that plays a starring role in many portfolios. Polish artists do wonders with the organic gem: Check out ­Marcin Zaremski for raw amber paired with matte-finished silver, or Studio Rox’s Adam Wyspianski for treated gold and titanium lily motifs with a Tim Burton–like fantasy feel. —JH

ASIA & AUSTRALIA

Australia
As the dominant supplier of the world’s gem opal and South Sea pearl stocks, far-flung Australia is a critical player in the business and, as such, has a robust presence at the JCK show, if by proxy (most of the notable dealers in these goods are, in fact, based in the United States). Buyers in search of fiery black opals from Lightning Ridge would do well to consult the showcases of DuftyWeis Opals, a Maysville, Ky.–based firm that trades in the real deal from Down Under. Pearl lovers can’t go wrong with Baggins, Emiko Pearls, or Mastoloni, excellent sources for edgy fashion-­forward styles, statement-making baroques, and classic South Sea strands, respectively. —Victoria Gomelsky

14k rose gold pendant with citrine, amethyst, blue topaz, Brazilian garnet, and chrome diopside; $299; Lorenzo Jewelry, Los Angeles; 213-233-4207; ljintl.com

Hong Kong
The special administrative region is rich in many things—food, shopping, skyscrapers—but unless you’ve worked with a Hong Kong manufacturer, you may not know that the city-state is a mecca for ­jewelry talent. Known for speedy turnaround, a high degree of craftsmanship, and an exhaustive range of merchandise, the 200 Hong Kong–based companies that participate in JCK Las Vegas constitute a ­meta-show all their own. You’ll find it all in this pavilion in the Bayside Exhibit Hall on level 1, adjacent to World’s Fair—from the cheap and cheerful (gem-set butterfly pins at Lorenzo Jewelry) to the spendy and sophisticated. At Kahn Fine Jewellery, ask to see the yellow and white diamond flower ring that converts to a pendant; its clustered stones clock in at 0.91 ct. t.w. “but bring the bling of a 3 carat,” according to owner David Shah. —VG

India
When it comes to diamond cutting and polishing, India dominates the global market. The city of Surat in the state of Gujarat, alone, shines up a cool 90 percent of the world’s rough diamonds. Finished jewelry is also big business in India, with gold jewelry comprising around 80 percent of exported jewelry. Mumbai’s Ankit Gems Pvt. Ltd., exhibiting at LUXURY this year, is set to showcase its perfectly polished diamonds, which range from 0.3 ct. to 5 ct. In the Elite Enclave section of LUXURY, don’t miss New York City–based Shah ­Diamonds and its high-end bridal and colored stone lines, all made with pride in Mumbai. And ­Jaipur’s Gemco Designs, located in JCK’s India Pavilion, will display its finely detailed diamond and gemstone-studded ­jewelry. —Emili Vesilind

Cushion ring with 13 mm South Sea pearl and 1.4 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,200; Mastoloni, NYC; 212-757-7278; mastoloni.com

Thailand
Bangkok is a gemstone-cutting center, and its hill tribes are known for fabricating silver, but the country is also home to plenty of manufacturers of finished diamond jewels. Of the 57 Thai companies exhibiting at JCK, be sure to check out Savvy Jewelry Co. Ltd. for classic-looking sapphire and diamond rings or antiquey, Nouveau-like aquamarine and diamond necklaces topped with bows. Thien Po Jewelry Ltd. has easy-to-appreciate diamond styles in platinum and karat gold, Anila Gem International offers sleek diamond styles set with trendy baguette cuts, and Miki Siamese International has diamond-set snakes poised to slither away with buyers. —JH

Turkey
Despite its tiny size, Turkey is one of Europe’s biggest gold exporters, with finished jewelry accounting for the bulk of that yield. The country’s “culture capital,” ­Istanbul, is also a design hub in the industry, known for its many innovative ateliers that infuse ­romantic-feeling Eastern aesthetics into their ­collections. Thirty-five Turkish manufacturers are showing at JCK this year; standouts include Gasia, which contributed a handful of its Muslim-slash-Roman–inspired gold pieces to Sarah Jessica Parker’s ­jewelry wardrobe in Sex and the City 2, and Onsa, an ­Istanbul-based firm specializing in mixed-metal ­finished ­jewelry with a definite fashion flair. —EV

AFRICA & THE MIDDLE EAST

Appraising De Beers–mined gems in Botswana

Botswana
Time was, De Beers executives couldn’t set foot in the United States. Now, not only can they visit, but they are getting up-close and personal. On Friday, May 30, from 4 p.m. to 5:15 p.m. in the Surf Ballroom, the company’s CEO is giving a special presentation and talk—his first-ever presentation to a public audience at an American trade show. Philippe Mellier and other executives will present the results of a new De Beers study on the diamond business, followed by a question and answer session and a networking reception. Ever wanted to say something to a De Beers exec—good, bad, or ­indifferent? Here’s your chance. —RB

Israel
Looking for a specific stone? You no longer have to wander 40 days in the diamond desert. Israel has developed a new system designed to help buyers search for that one gem they need. It’s called—appropriately enough—Find Your Diamond. The tool lets buyers search for their sought-after gems among the Israeli exhibitors—who, we should note, will be at JCK in force this year: The Israel Diamond Pavilion is showcasing 44 companies—50 percent more than last year—with an additional 60 Israeli companies in other locations throughout the show. —RB

Halo ring with 3.3 ct. fancy orangy pink oval-shape diamond and 0.87 ct. t.w. round brilliants in platinum and rose gold, pendant with 0.81 ct. fancy light pink heart-shape diamond and 0.34 ct. t.w. round brilliants in 18k white and rose gold; prices on request; Leibish & Co., Ramat Gan, Israel; 855-534-2474; leibish.com

Ring in platinum with a 17 ct. cabochon tanzanite and 2.25 cts. t.w. diamonds; price on request; Jack Kelége, Sherman Oaks, Calif.; 877-6-KELEGE; jackkelege.com

Tanzania
If you’re on the hunt for a spectacular velvety blue-purple stone, you’re in luck. JCK hosts plenty of ­tanzanite-loving designers and exhibitors (Hello, AGTA GemFair!). But if you want a primer on the ultrarare gem, info on its East African origins, or a dealer intro, head to the Tanzanite Foundation booth in Bayside, level 1. This year’s hot topics, says executive director Hayley Henning, are “Ethical Mining” and “Route to Market”; she’ll be on hand to talk about both. And don’t miss the display of jewels from the Maasai Ladies Project, the foundation’s 2-year-old initiative that teaches local women in Tanzania the art of ­wire-wrap jewelry making. —MRB

LATIN AMERICA

Ring in 18k gold with 8.8 ct. citrine, 8.8 cts. t.w. lavender amethyst, 8.8 ct. t.w. navy blue quartz, 2.94 ct. t.w. carnelian, and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,820; Vianna, Miami; 888-679-3088; viannabrasil.com

Brazil
Movement, colored gemstones, karat gold designs…all telltale signs of jewelry made in Brazil. The country is home to an astounding number of gem mines—from Paraiba tourmaline to all the pretty pastels found in quartz—and its homegrown jewelry talent takes full advantage of this bonanza. See Vianna Brasil in ­LUXURY for a rainbow of tourmaline and quartz styles, or buy some of your own stones and custom-make a piece with loose gems from AGTA exhibitors Brasil Color Gems or Brazilian Gem Source. —JH

Mexico
The mining and mass exportation of metals—particularly silver—is central to Mexico’s fascinating history. Today, Mexican artisans and jewelry companies produce everything from traditional silver pieces to gem-filled fine jewelry. Fourteen Mexican jewelry firms are poised to exhibit at JCK—40 percent more than last year. Check out adorable fine jewelry for babies and girls from first-time vendor Ana Diaz & Kika, then head over to veteran exhibitor Sabelli’s booth to witness the company’s extensive collection of enamel- and gem-inlaid stud earrings. Finally, don’t miss ­Daniel Espinosa, whose designer brand—in addition to jewelry, he creates handbags and housewares—has a loyal collector following the world over. —EV

My Sweet Butterfly earrings in 14k gold with Swarovski crystals; $49; Sabelli, Guadalajara, Jalisco, México; 33-36-69-0848; sabelli.com Water Cult ring in silver with abalone, chrysocolla, spondylus shell, and mother-of-pearl; $104; Ccusi, Magdalena, Peru; 51-16-531-581; ccusi.com

Peru
You may not currently think of Peru for jewelry craftsmanship, but that could soon change, considering that the Peruvian government has embarked on a campaign to draw attention to its creative talent. Last year, a delegation of Peruvian jewelry designers set up shop in a special Peru Pavilion adjacent to the Design ­Center, and this year, they’ll be there again. See Ccusi for cute shell mosaics in silver, Mitos Peru for intricate filigree styles and oversize cuffs—both in silver and gold vermeil—and Cite Arequipa for nature-inspired pieces like dragonflies. —JH

USA: EDITORS’ PICKS

The United States jewelry industry has taken some hits in the past few years. But it’s still big business, raking in $80 billion in 2013, according to IBISWorld. American designers make it all, from classic bridal baubles to high-fashion collections. Here are a few of our editors’ favorites, straight from the JCK show floor.

Bounkit (Design Center)
We’ve been fans of this New York City brand for years; in June 2010, JCK singled out Hassan Bounkit as one of seven new designers to watch. (Also on our list: Jemma Wynne and Monique Péan.) Now, for the first time, he’s bringing his super-affordable ­colored stone specialties to JCK. We’re particularly fond of his stackable cuffs and anything involving amethyst. —MRB 

Long (convertible to short) necklace with faceted amethyst and fluorite strands; $1,190; Bounkit, NYC; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com Ring in 19k white and yellow gold with 0.98 ct. t.w. diamonds (center stone not included); $7,665; Daviani Collection, Los Angeles; 213-622-3243; davianicollection.com

Daviani (Bridal Pavilion)
All women love their engagement rings, but that doesn’t stop them from drooling over other bridal designs. Daviani manufactures its beauties from start to finish in Los Angeles. Presented with a ring like this 19k double-diamond halo style, what bride-to-be wouldn’t say “I do”? —Brittany Siminitz

Dyanne Belle (Design Center)
I can’t wait to see Deb Schecter of Dyanne Belle; she hand-makes her gold, silver, and black rhodium ­jewelry in oversize and soft-edged geometric forms. Her metalwork often has dimpled surfaces with antique-looking and matte finishes, which contrast beautifully with gemstones like amethyst and moonstone. —JH

Large Blossom earrings in silver with black rhodium with 16 cts. t.w. citrine; $1,585; Dyanne Belle, NYC; 646-208-9755; dyannebelle.com 25.81 ct. purple sapphire trapiche crystal; $5,000; Omi Gems, West Covina, Calif.; 877-OMI-GEMS; omigems.com

Zodiac charm bangle in antique gold-finished brass; $26; Wind & Fire, Pearl River, N.Y.; 800-431-1606; windandfirejewelry.com

Omi Gems (AGTA GemFair)
Russian alexandrites, Mogok rubies, padparadscha sapphires: This Los Angeles gem dealer and ­jewelry manufacturer sells the rarest of the rare. I can’t resist popping by Omi’s cases in the AGTA ballroom to drool over the goods. Case in point: an unheated purple sapphire trapiche crystal. I’ve seen it in emerald, but never in a sapphire—and in trendy purple, no less! —VG

Wind & Fire (Fashion Jewelry)
With more than 100 companies, JCK’s Fashion Jewelry section is the place to find affordable on-trend merch—like ultrawearable, adjustable charm bracelets from Wind & Fire, an eco-friendly firm in Pearl River, N.Y. Think arm candy for any occasion! —EV