Victorian Virtuosity

"Simple" is not the word to describe Victorian jewelry. Elaborate gem-studded pieces were de rigueur for the high-fashion Victorian woman, and portraits from the time show female subjects draped in multi-strand necklaces, bracelets, pins, rings, and hair jewelry. Fashioned by lesser hands, many of the elaborate jeweled pieces had a clunky or overblown feel, but those designed by the masters were marvels of jewelry art. One such master was Carlo Giuliano. Giuliano, a Neapolitan, came to England with his wife and two sons around 1860. Details on his sponsorship are sketchy: For many years it was thought that he had been guided to London by Robert Phillips, an English goldsmith and jeweler, but the prevailing belief now is that he arrived as a result of the overtures of the Castellani family of Rome. The Castellanis were renowned jewelers and goldsmiths, with bases in Italy, France, and

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