Vicenzaoro Design: Subtlety Reigns

Italians scale back their traditional boldness in jewelry design Subtle changes and understated elegance characterized new design trends at Vicenzaoro I, held Jan. 14-21 in Vicenza, Italy. The most noticeable element was diminutive sizing: a scaling back of the Italians' traditional boldness. Though many pieces still were significantly larger than U.S. manufacturers might offer (recession or not, this is Italy!), exhibitors found ways to make even large-scale pieces cost less. Most often this was achieved with lighter weights ("We make lightweight pieces" was a popular sign in many windows) or fewer gems, especially diamonds. Also apparent was a reciprocity of design ideas. It used to be "Italians innovate, Americans copy," but now many design trends originate here and are copied in Italy. A case in point is the Melrose Place look: dainty "Y" necklaces and delicate chains with gem

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