Unconventional Wisdom

On a recent afternoon in Manhattan, Christian Hemmerle, the fourth-generation member of a family-owned jewelry atelier in Munich, showed me the metallic equivalent of a swatch book: a box of polished rings rendered in 28 different metals. “We start with copper in all its patinas,” he said, before rattling off a list of the other materials—from “very boring” gold to stainless steel in an elegant matte ­finish—that serve as a platform for Hemmerle’s inventive, world-class designs. We sat in a suite at the Hotel Plaza Athenee, a favorite among European ­jewelers for its discrete and luxurious Upper East Side setting. The pieces on display in the sun-drenched space—including a 90 ct. Melo pearl pendant whose beguiling flame-like luster seemed to defy possibility—spoke to Hemmerle’s reputation as a jeweler to the wealthiest and most discerning buyers in the world. Yet Ch

This content is exclusive to JCK Pro subscribers. Subscribe now to access this and much more with discount code GOPRO21 for $199 for an entire year of access (reg. $249).


Already a JCK Pro? Log in

A JCK Pro subscription is your all-access pass to people and resources on the
cutting edge of the retail jewelry industry, from the industry authority you
know and trust

Learn about the Perks of JCK Pro

Log Out

Are you sure you want to log out?

CancelLog out