Mechanicals on the Move

Mechanical watches seemed near extinction just 25 years ago. Today, they not only dominate luxury watchmaking but also are profit centers for other watches. Maurice Lacroix, for example, expects 90 percent of its watches to be mechanical by 2012. Nearly 60 percent of Hamilton's watches are now self-winding, while 25 per-cent of Victorinox Swiss Army's watches are mechanicals, including its new Alpnach collection. Others, from upscale to affordable, are adding one or more to their repertoire, such as Gucci's first automatic (a limited edition for men) in its new Pantheon collection and Armitron's first automatic, a skeleton watch (starting at $95). One sign of activity in the mechanical watch segment is that more brands are unveiling their own movements. Bulgari's Diagono Scuba watch, for example, has a specially created movement, as does Ebel's 1911 BTR. Formex's square 4Speed (with

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