Gold: Artist Joseph Murray’s Signature Sea Anemone Motif & More

Anemone ­Territory

Joseph Murray’s signature sea anemone motif is beautifully rendered in gemstone designs like this necklace on cord. The New York City–based artist uses a 165 ct. labradorite cabochon to mimic the sea creature’s wide mouth and briolettes clusters to recall its finger-like tentacles. The center stone’s dreamy depth of colors reminds Murray of, he says, “a tide pool.”




Lily ring in 18k pink gold with 9.88 ct. pink tourmaline and 1.8 cts. t.w. diamonds; $41,680; VIERI Haute Joaillerie, Zurich; 41-43-243-8723;

When Rudolf Merkle Wholesale Jewellery Co. opened for business in Pforzheim, Germany, in the early 1930s, it began as a humble manufacturing operation that nevertheless thrived for the next 80 years. Following patriarch Rudolf’s unexpected passing in 1965, his son, Eddy Vieri Merkle, took over at age 17. Now it’s time for the third generation to take its turn at the helm. This spring, Guya Merkle rechristened the company VIERI Haute Joaillerie, pledging to use only ethically sourced gold and producing lines with established designers like Bibi van der Velden and Johannesburg-based multidisciplinary artist Katrin Lewinsky. “My dad did production for big brands—it was always a B-to-B company,” says Guya, who took over with her mother, Kate. “I want to make it a B-to-C brand.”

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