It’s no surprise that Nicola Bulgari, vice chairman of the Bulgari Group, gets a little carried away when describing this gold, diamond, and colored-stone necklace from the brand’s newest high jewelry collection: “The gemstones remind me of soft raindrops falling gently onto a window pane.” (With nearly 400 cts. t.w. of gemstones, that’s quite a rain shower.) “It has an impressionistic quality to it,” he adds, “and evokes Debussy’s Petite Suite for piano—a gem of lightness with colorful yet delicate swagger.” It was inspired, says the Italian-born Bulgari, “by the rich nature of the Mediterranean land. The multicolor gems are like juicy ripe fruits hanging from a golden trellis, enlightened by sparkling diamond sunrays”—22.84 cts. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds, to be precise. Having recently presided over Bulgari’s 125th anniversary, his exuberance is only appropriate.
“White gold is our best-selling metal worldwide,” says Bulgari. “However, yellow gold is specifically characteristic of Bulgari’s heritage.” And yellow was perfect for this piece: “Its warm, solar color exalts the nuances of the multicolor stones.”
The cabochon cut has been one of the jeweler’s hallmarks since the 1950s, evident here in the 389.70 cts. t.w. of colored gemstones—citrine, amethyst, pink and brown tourmaline, peridot, iolite, aquamarine, and heliodor—which Bulgari says were selected not for “intrinsic value” but for “chromatic effect.”
That ’70s Show
Seems like everyone is turning to the Me Decade for inspiration these days. “Several of our most recent additions evoke the bold creations we made in the ’70s,” says Bulgari. These links are reminiscent, he adds, of the heavy curb link chains—or gourmette—the company made famous 30 years ago. “That gives it something of a retro spirit.”