An American Gem[m]ologist in London

U.S. jewelry designer Kathryn Kinev, Jewel Creations, Atlanta, Ga., was one of only a handful of Americans who attended the Gem-A annual education conference last fall, and she says jeweler/gemologists should consider traveling across the pond for the 2004 conference. The eight members of the U.S. delegation for 2003 included guest speakers William Boyajian, president of the Gemological Institute of America, and jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay.

The event was directed toward advancing technology in the industry. The conference included Dr. Henry Hänni of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), who discussed the laboratory’s use of numerous high-tech devices for identifying gemstones. Hänni’s lab, like all gem labs, has examined high pressure/high temperature-treated (HPHT) diamonds and bulk-lattice-diffusion-treated corundum and is researching the use of country of origin for gemstone identification. Hänni emphasized that the cost of laboratory equipment used to detect these advanced treatments makes the price of identification a deterrent to evaluation.

Dr. Jack Ogden discussed sleuthing with computer graphics to determine the origins, history, development, and characteristics of white gold jewelry. Ogden, working on the identification of antique jewelry, can now use advanced computer graphics to ascertain the date of manufacture and manufacturing methods.

Crevoshay shared her insights into the use of the basic refractometer for matching complementary-color stones for her work.

David V. Thomas of Garrard Jewelers, director of the Crown Jewels, led a tour of the Tower of London, which houses the British Crown Jewels. Thomas is responsible for delivering the jewels to the Queen for state events and for taking care of each item.

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