It took more than 100 years to collect the pigeon’s blood Burmese rubies in this dazzling piece. Created by contemporary designer James W. Currens for Fai Dee specifically for Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite sale in Hong Kong April 7, the Red Emperor necklace “is one of the finest ruby necklaces to have appeared at auction,” says Flora Wong, director and senior specialist for jewelry at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. “The well-balanced graduation of the stones…accentuates the perfect curvature of the design.” The rubies chiseled into hearts and pears—among the hardest shapes to match—suffered significant weight loss during the cutting and polishing process. But the pruning only brought out the best in the gems’ color and quality, says Wong. “The result of the meticulous workmanship is a superb ruby necklace that is almost impossible to reconstruct.”