18 steps to success

A fancy-shaped stone, like a pear, requires special setting procedures. For one thing, the girdle and shape of the stone are different at the tip and the back of the stone, so two distinct types of prongs are needed in the setting. The sharp points of pear-shaped and marquise stones usually are set in large "V" prongs, while the sides are secured in round prongs. Follow along as master goldsmith Alan Revere explains the ins and outs of pear setting. Once the side stones are set (see "Practical Stone Setting, Part VII," JCK, April 2004, p. 117), focus your attention on preparing for the center gem, in this case a 7-mm x 5-mm pear-shaped stone. Check the stone for damage and examine the cut. Look at the girdle. Is it thin or thick or variable? Is the slope of the pavilion uniform? Is the girdle level with the table? Note your observations on the job envelope. All of this info

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