Estate Jeweler Tiina Smith Bows Capsule on Moda Operandi

Sad: Last week, Will Kahn announced his departure from luxury retail site Moda Operandi, where he held the position of jewelry market director. Happy: One of the last trunk shows he had a hand in curating went live on the site on Friday.

And it’s very special.

Because it features an assortment of rare antique and estate jewelry treasures from Tiina Smith, a prestigious Boston-based vintage and estate jewelry dealer who also operates in New York and Palm Beach, Fla.

Smith, who has a gallery on Newbury Street, and a global network of sources who bring her the pick of the glitter, founded her business in 2017, after a career on Wall Street. She has a knack for acquiring jewels from names that any collector or jewelry enthusiast with a pulse covets: Bulgari, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, Seaman Schepps—and that’s just for starters.

All are well represented across the 30-plus pieces that comprise her “guest appearance” with Moda, as you can see from my picks below.


Verdura shell earrings
From left: Carved gray chalcedony and cultured pearl shell ear clips with gold omega backs; carved aventurine and cabochon amethyst shell ear clips with gold details and omega backs, $11,500 each; both Verdura
Harry Winston lapis ruby diamond earrings
Floral stud ear clips with fluted lapis lazuli, cabochon rubies, and diamonds in 18k gold, $17,000; Harry Winston
Seaman Schepps pearl necklace
Three-strand pearl choker with cabochon pink tourmaline centerpiece accented by blue sapphires and diamonds, and carved pink tourmaline clasp, $26,500; Seaman Schepps
Marina B fujiyama ear clips
Fujiyama ear clips in blackened gold with orange sapphires and diamonds in 18k gold bezels, $31,000; Marina B
Van Cleef Arpels Alhambra collar
Circa 1990s Alhambra collar in 18k yellow gold, $24,500; Van Cleef & Arpels
Tiffany Co 14k retro bracelet
Circa 1940s three-row articulated link bracelet in 14k yellow gold, with a fold-over clasp accented with a rose-cut diamond, $24,500; Tiffany & Co.
Henry Dunay lapis ring
Cocktail ring with lapis in textured 18k gold honeycomb setting, $15,500; Henry Dunay
Bulgari Doppio ring
Doppio ring with oval ruby and oval sapphire in 18k gold, $5,750; Bulgari
David Webb rock crystal earrings
Circa 1970s ear clips with fluted rock crystal and bands of diamonds in platinum, David Webb


Top: Wave earrings with modified square and trapezoid-shape iolite and amethysts in 18k white gold, Seaman Schepps; $13,000


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Amy Elliott

JCK Contributing Editor

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