Metal & Smith wrapped up its two-day trade show in New York City last week, and it’s always our pleasure to attend this event. Because housed in this small venue on 38th Street near the Javits Center are numerous small, independent designers brimming with creativity and vision. While we would love to call out every single designer at this event, three designers stood out.
After a romantic heartbreak, Danielle Gerber, owner and designer of Emetti based in Tel Aviv, Israel, left for a six-month trip to India and, upon her return, she started her own jewelry line in 2017. Inspired by the colors and shapes of India and working with gold, colored diamonds, and precious gems such as rubies, sapphires, and tourmaline, Gerber’s line is filled with crane rings that wrap around the ringer, open lotus rings, and peacock cocktail rings. The line is simply gorgeous.
“My designs are not just birds,” she says. “They symbolize a woman fulfilling her passions and dreams. I had felt so much pressure to go to university because I was the first in my family who didn’t earn a degree, but my need to be free was stronger. Although I have settled in Israel, freedom and spreading my wings continue to be my compass.”
William Llewellyn Griffiths has been making jewelry for more than 40 years, and this year he made a decision to close his store in Melbourne, Australia, to take to the trade show circuit. This line turns jewelry-making on its head. There are cocktail rings that look like cathedrals, cocktail rings that open up with a lock to reveal tiny containers, and earrings that painstakingly re-create every detail of a chandelier. We couldn’t get enough.
When asked what attracts him to architecture, Griffiths says, “Cathedrals are a feat of engineering, and it’s a feat of engineering to make a cathedral into a ring.”
Kukka Jewelry has a heartbreaking and inspiring backstory. The line, based in Córdoba, Spain, and designed by Conchi Fernandez, came about four years ago when she was told she couldn’t have children. “Kukka Jewelry is going to be my baby,” Fernandez declared. From there, she started a beautiful array of rings, bracelets, necklaces, and cuffs inspired by textures that you see in nature. Rough surfaces, asymmetric lines, and precious gems populate the collection, which is surprisingly affordable. The line is also very artistic. “Jewelry is among the most intimate art anyone can own,” Fernandez says. We couldn’t agree more.
Top: Golden queen bird ring 14k gold with rubies and sapphires, $2,909; Emetti
Note: Kristin Young is writing the Off the Chain blog while Victoria Gomelsky is on maternity leave.