3 Jewelry Highlights From the Current TEFAF New York Show

By Annie Davidson Watson | May 12, 2025

For the 11th year, TEFAF New York is attracting art and design collectors and enthusiasts to the Park Avenue Armory in Manhattan. An impressive collection of fine jewelry is showcased at the prestigious fair, presented by the European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF) and continuing through May 13.

This year, 91 dealers and galleries, and artisans from 13 countries on four continents are exhibiting jewelry selections, ranging from contemporary designs to historic masterpieces. Among the remarkable jewelry pieces in TEFAF is the diamond, spinel, and sapphire Cleopatra necklace (pictured above) by New York–based designer Anna Hu.

While Hu often draws inspiration from nature or music, for this creation she was inspired by the queen of the Ptolemaic kingdom of Egypt. Hu says the necklace, which was crafted in Paris, pays tribute to the strength, beauty, and intelligence of women.

*Hemmerle bangle in stainless steel, bronze, and white gold with spessartine garnets and knitter almandine*

Other jewelry exhibitors at TEFAF New York include Didier Ltd., a London gallery known for unique and often sculptural jewelry; Ana Khouri, a New York–based artist celebrated for her fluid and organic forms; Boghossian, the Swiss jeweler renowned for its innovative gemstone settings; New York’s FD Gallery, offering a curated selection of vintage and contemporary high jewelry; and Hemmerle, a family-owned German company with a legacy of crafting distinctive jewels using unexpected materials.

Cartier necklace — *Cartier Belle Époque lavaliere necklace (1908) in platinum with diamonds, exhibited by FD Gallery*

TEFAF New York also features a wide array of modern and contemporary art, antiquities, and design from top-tier international dealers. Beyond the traditional booths, TEFAF New York incorporates large-scale works through its “creative spaces” initiative and animates the Park Avenue Armory’s historic rooms with focused presentations. The fair has become a cornerstone of New York City’s vibrant arts calendar, attracting a global audience eager to discover museum-quality works.

Top: Anna Hu Cleopatra necklace (2008) in 18k yellow gold with 245.07 cts. t.w. red spinel pearls, 110 cts. t.w. diamond beads, 10.61 cts. t.w. green sapphires, 8.45 cts. t.w. yellow diamonds, and 3.64 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds (photos courtesy of TEFAF)

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