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Sparks Fly in the Arizona Desert

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From Feb. 1 to 3, the Centurion show returns to the Arizona Biltmore Resort in Phoenix. In addition to featuring a musical performance by Train, the annual buying show will serve as a coming-out party for dozens of new collections from jewelers keen to get on the good foot this year. Below, we highlight five brands bringing a whole lot of newness to the desert.

Hearts On Fire
Hearts On Fire Dream earrings
Dream Circle convertible earrings in 18k yellow gold with 2.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,200; Hearts On Fire

The Boston-based diamond jewelry manufacturer is debuting its Dream collection at Centurion. The line features 13 styles in yellow and rose gold, all imbued with a cosmic inspiration (as seen in the pierced star motif on the back of each setting). The designs are distinguished by sculptural curves and circular silhouettes, each cradling a single Hearts On Fire signature-cut diamond.

Hearts On Fire Dream necklace
Dream Floating bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 3.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $19,950; Hearts On Fire 

“Dream is more than a new collection; it’s a reminder that, like the universe itself, our dreams are infinite,” Rebecca Foerster, president of North America at Hearts On Fire, said in a statement. “This launch reflects our focus on creating jewelry that is emotionally resonant, visually striking, and designed to inspire self-expression.”

Oscar Heyman
Oscar Heyman tourmaline paraiba and diamond earrings
Earrings in platinum with 7.75 cts. t.w. indicolite tourmaline, 2.3 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmaline, and diamonds, $92,000; Oscar Heyman

In keeping with its focus on using exceptional stones in dramatic color pairings, Oscar Heyman will showcase a number of gem-centric new styles, such as the pair of tourmaline earrings featured above, at Centurion. “It will be an exciting show, as this is just one of many new styles that we will debut,” Tom Heyman, president of Oscar Heyman, says.

Oscar Heyman diamond frame ring
Frame ring in platinum with 2.2 ct. diamond, 1,97 cts. t.w. baguette-cut sapphires, and 0.48 ct. t.w. baguette-cut diamonds, $78,000; Oscar Heyman

The brand will also unveil a spectacular 2.20 ct. emerald-cut diamond ring framed by baguette blue sapphires. “I love this ring’s thoughtful design and impeccable construction,” Heyman says.

Parlé

At Centurion, the Pocatello, Idaho–based gem and jewelry manufacturer will show new products across five key categories: charms, tiger stripe opal doublets, colored gemstone strands (including turquoise, pearls, and Montana sapphire), brooches, and gold-forward statement pieces.

“Brooches have long been a favorite of ours, and we continue to explore them through the lens of insects and animals,” Brecken Farnsworth, Parlé’s creative director, says. “Each design begins with the stone itself—its shape, color, and character often guiding the direction of the piece. That approach led us to create an ant brooch featuring a vivid Mexican fire opal, a stone we simply couldn’t resist bringing to life.”

The brand is also, er, doubling down on tiger stripe opal doublets from the Lambina region of Australia. “Their bold patterning and natural contrast have inspired an array of designs, including rings, earrings, pendants, and necklaces—each allowing the graphic quality of the stone to take center stage,” Farnsworth says.

To satisfy growing desire for jewels that allow people to express their individuality, Parlé will offer a selection of quirky nature-inspired charms, including a series of pieces featuring beetles, bees, and a sweet little ladybug.

Parle turquoise bead necklace
Kazakhstan turquoise bead necklace in 14k yellow gold, $4,295; Parlé

Parlé has a two-pronged approach to working with gold at a time when the metal’s price regularly exceeds $4,500 per ounce. “As gold prices continue to rise, we’ve been intentional about creating statement necklaces that deliver a strong punch of color without breaking the bank,” Farnsworth says. “Our colored gemstone strands featuring turquoise, pearls, and Montana sapphire are designed to make an impact through color and texture. On the other end of the spectrum, we’re also embracing designs for those who love to showcase their gold. These gold-forward pieces highlight the beauty of the gemstone while maintaining a pronounced gold presence, striking a balance between richness and refinement.”

Picchiotti
Picchiotti bracelet
Signature Style Xpandable bracelet in 18k white gold with 33.8 cts. t.w. rubies and 16.29 cts. t.w. diamonds, $293,850; Picchiotti 

The Valenza, Italy–based jeweler will bring a fresh crop of gem-set bracelets to Centurion. Ideal for stacking, the pieces feature square and baguette diamonds accented by buff-top sapphires, rubies, emeralds and fancy yellow diamonds.

Picchiotti ring
Signature Style Xpandable ring in 18k white gold with 4.77 cts. t.w. buff-top sapphires and 5.47 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request; Picchiotti

“At Picchiotti, 2026 will be a continuation of our elevated standards of workmanship, as we debut new iterations of our diamond and precious gemstone high jewelry classics,” Maria Carola Picchiotti, the brand’s marketing director, says. “We are also taking our best-selling Xpandable Collection to new heights, with ever more innovative styles. Xpandables sell very well in America because they combine timeless design with comfort and ease, making them very versatile and appropriate for contemporary luxury lifestyles.”

Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin Princess Star earrings
Princess Star earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds and yellow sapphires, price on request; Roberto Coin

From his home base in Vicenza, Italy, the consummate Italian jeweler is bringing two new collections to Arizona: Tiarè and Princess Star.

Roberto Coin Tiaré ring
Tiaré ring in 18k white gold with 1.2 cts t.w. diamonds and 1.2 cts. t.w. rubellite, $30,580; Roberto Coin

“The collections launched in 2025 such as Tiarè, Cobra, and Princess Star were met with tremendous success, reaffirming the creative direction of the brand,” Coin tells JCK. “As we look ahead to 2026, I am continuing to build on this momentum by extending select collections such as Venetian Princess, introducing new variations enriched with colored gemstones to further expand their depth and versatility.”

Top: Ant lapel pin in 14k gold with Mexican fire opal, $6,545; Parlé

By: Victoria Gomelsky

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