Sotheby’s Kicks Off Fall Season With Paris Fine Jewelry Sale

By Annie Davidson Watson | September 29, 2025

Sotheby’s is sending more than 260 lots to the block on Sept. 30 for its Paris Fine Jewelry auction, long regarded as the launch of Europe’s fine and high jewelry fall season.

The sale will feature a mix of signed pieces from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Mauboussin, Boucheron, Graff, and de Grisogono—many emerging from private collections and appearing at auction for the first time.

Offering storied design and rare gemstones, this week’s sale is positioned to build on momentum from the strong spring season for Sotheby’s Paris. In March, the house surpassed $8 million in sales for the first time since 2018, defying expectations and signaling renewed confidence in the market.

Cartier bangle — *Cartier Panthère diamond bangle with sapphire spots, onyx nose, and emerald eyes, estimate $234,000-$352,000*

Among the standout lots is a Cartier ring (pictured at top) with an 18.25 ct. royal blue Burmese sapphire, set atop a band of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds of vivid royal blue color. It is estimated at $468,000 to $702,000.

Cartier’s iconic Panthère bangle (above) has a high estimate over $350,000, while a 10.68 ct. unheated Kashmir sapphire ring could also go for more than $300,000.

*Graff earrings with 6.53 ct. and 7.04 ct. radiant-cut yellow diamonds plus brilliant-cut diamonds, estimate $210,000–$327,000*

Other headliners include a pair of Graff fancy intense yellow diamond earrings (above) and a 4.03 ct. fancy pink diamond pendant, expected to achieve between $211,188 and $281,585.

*Boucheron watch with diamonds and sapphires, estimate $46,000–$93,000*

Beyond the top lots, the sale features a number of historically significant designs, including a sapphire and diamond bracelet-watch by Boucheron (above) and a circa 1940 “secret” watch by Van Cleef & Arpels with diamond-set push pieces that open to reveal a square dial.

VCA watch — *Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo watch in gold with rubies and diamonds, estimate $46,000–$70,000*

The Paris event will be held live at Sotheby’s showroom on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and online on Sotheby’s site. It marks the first of several European sales this season, with upcoming events in Milan, Geneva, and London before the calendar shifts to New York and Sotheby’s inaugural high jewelry sale in Abu Dhabi this December.

(Photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)

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