Siegelson, the New York–based dealer known for handling some of the most important jewels of the 20th century, recently acquired a remarkable art deco design: a mid-’30s aquamarine, diamond, and coral necklace by Jean Fouquet. Preserved in its original fitted leather case, the necklace embodies both the bold vision of one of the era’s most notable designers and the artistry that defined the period. Price is on request from Siegelson.
Dating to around 1935, the necklace balances volume, geometry, and color. A ring of coral rectangles provides a vivid, unexpected base of color, from which 22 perfectly matched emerald-cut aquamarines are suspended. Achieving such uniformity in aquamarine is itself a feat: The luminous blue stone is notoriously difficult to source in consistent color and quality, and jewelers often spend months or even years assembling enough of it to complete a single jewel. This piece’s aquamarines weigh a total of 120 cts.
The series of aquamarines is punctuated by chevron-shaped plaques, each peaked at the center like an architectural roofline, half in diamond pavé and half in platinum. Some 3.5 cts. t.w. circular-, old-, and single-cut diamonds are set into the plaques. The contrast between their angular planes and the sleek expanses of aquamarine underscores Fouquet’s talent for creating wearable works of art that were like modernist sculpture.
In the 1920s and ’30s, Fouquet broke decisively with traditional notions of jewelry as delicate ornament. He believed jewelry should be noticeable and impactful, even at a quick glance. “A piece of jewelry must be composed of masses clearly visible from a distance,” said Fouquet. “Objects glimpsed at top speed become distorted, and we can only perceive them by their volume…. Today we have become accustomed to reading quickly.”
(Photos courtesy of Siegelson)
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