Shiny & New: 9 Must-See Jewels Debuting at Melee NY

By Amy Elliott | January 15, 2026

It’s fair to say that the Saks Global bankruptcy saga has many of our industry’s small, independent designers responding with a mix of anxiety, indignation, and fear. Those big feelings are valid, but consider this: Now more than ever, it’s vital for jewelry brands to start building—or deepening—their relationships with independent retailers.

The Saks situation, as stated in this widely shared Rapaport article, has “created opportunity for smaller or alternative players when it comes to distributing fine jewelry through retail—and even more importantly, to capturing high-net-worth customers.”

Rebecca Overmann and Lauren Wolf, cofounders of Melee the Show—whose next edition takes place Jan. 31–Feb. 2 in New York—express a similar optimism about the retail landscape for indie designers in 2026. “We are seeing a dedicated consumer investment in small businesses and a shift away from big-box retail,” Overmann tells JCK. “We feel more confident than ever that small, independent retail is thriving.”

That 70% of Melee registrants are affiliated with independent jewelry stores suggests that buyer appetite for undiscovered talent—and for the kind of handcrafted artistry, intricate storytelling, and one-of-a-kind gems that define the work of many Melee exhibitors—remains strong.

“It’s a very consistent, engaged group who return year after year to deepen relationships with designers they already work with, while also discovering and supporting emerging talent,” says Wolf.

A typical Melee booth interaction centers on a dialogue about design processes and materials. And it’s not uncommon for attendees and exhibitors to connect on a level beyond that of a commercial transaction, whether in the moment or down the road.

Every buyer’s curation strategy is unique. But if you’re inclined toward the new and never-before-seen, read on—and see above—for a snapshot of what your “treasure map” could look like at Melee’s upcoming New York show.

The Lulu Designs opal earrings pictured at top are among several pieces from key exhibitors debuting at Melee. These 14k gold Chroma earrings “are entirely about the stones,” says Lulu designer Stacy King. “The Australian opal doublets were chosen for their vivid color and natural striations, reminiscent of sunsets and organic patterning found in nature.”

Perennial favorite Ray Griffiths is returning to Melee with quite a few new pieces, including the ring below. “I wanted to capture the fleeting beauty of the flutter of a butterfly wing,” the designer tells JCK. “I was watching a video clip and became obsessed with the intricate structure of a butterfly’s wing. The intricate milgrain edging that traces the oxidized silver is like nature’s own veining.”

*Crownwork regency ring with pavé-set lavender sapphires and diamonds in 18k gold and oxidized silver, price on request; Ray Griffiths*

First-time Melee exhibitor Zanni Baas, of Zanni NYC, is promoting a revamp of one of her best-loved silver styles, in gold and diamonds. Reflecting a mood that might resonate with jewelry collectors of all stripes at this precise time, the design is a way “to not only wear your heart on your sleeve, but also on your fingers,” Baas says. “It speaks to a lot of my clients in different ways, whether they are trying to ward off negative energy or embrace their feelings. My favorite part of the design is the tiniest teardrop-shaped diamond. It’s the most perfect detail to complete the emotion on the face.”

Zanni NY sad face ring — *Sad signet ring in 14k yellow gold with natural diamonds, price on request, Zanni NYC*

Since launching his collection just a few years ago, Jake Matluck has been steadily expanding the breadth of his work and is returning to Melee with a trove of newly minted jewels. The New York–based goldsmith—and rising star—looks forward to telling the stories behind his latest pieces.

One important must-see from Matluck is a pair of earrings that were inspired by antique candlelit chandeliers—and that highlight the alluring quality of pretty-in-pink queen conch pearls.

Jack Matluck conch pearl earrings — *Chandelier earrings in 22k gold with natural queen conch pearls, old European–cut diamonds, and padparadscha sapphires, $13,180; Jake Matluck*

“Queen conch pearls are exceedingly rare, with only about one in every 15,000 shells containing a pearl, and fewer than 10% of those being gem-quality,” says Matluck. “That makes a single queen conch pearl exceptional, but a matched pair, especially in similar size and shape, is even more unique. Additionally, these pearls are entirely natural and formed without human intervention, unlike most pearls on the market today. When I found this pair, I knew I had to create a very special piece to honor the materials.”

Compelling stories about a stone’s origin, rarity, and intrinsic value can drive meaningful conversations between buyers and designers—and illuminate why a piece might right for a particular type of collector.

With this in mind, are your clients intrigued by “Desert Diamonds”? If so, look for pieces with stones that display the warmth of champagne hues, rich browns, or the full spectrum of yellows—or flashes of these colors all at once.

Vale Jewelry, for example, plans to unveil a one-of-a-kind ring that centers a fiery golden-brown diamond flanked by white diamond baguettes. “When we look for brown diamonds, we tend to reject many for appearing too muted or desaturated,” says brand cofounder Eva Bai. “What we seek—and what this diamond embodies—is a vibrant, lively presence: a stone with strong hue, balanced tone, and a magnetic energy that feels unmistakably alive.”

Vale Jewelry Haywood Ring — *Haywood ring in 18k gold with 3.04 ct. oval champagne diamond center stone, $21,500; Vale Jewelry*

Scottish designer Ellis Mhairi Cameron will showcase a ring at Melee with what she describes as a “fancy lemon diamond.” Such a stone is “difficult to source in their perfect hue,” says Cameron. “Too pale and the color fades, too saturated and they can look loud and brash. This stone sits in that middle ground where it sparkles without being overpowering.

“I design the shape of the ring so the halo is subtly uneven, the gold softened by hand-finishing and light polishing so it absorbs light rather than reflects it sharply,” she adds. “The ring isn’t about perfection or trend; it’s about championing a stone that no one else will ever have.”

EllisMhairiICameronArmachring — *Armach cocktail ring in 14k gold with 2 ct. cushion-cut fancy lemon diamond and mixed-cut white diamonds, $25,650; Ellis Mhairi Cameron*

Here are a few more must-sees to put on your schedule as you plan for the Melee New York show. (Note: A Tucson edition of Melee will be held Feb. 4–6.)