In a historic moment for Scotland’s cultural heritage—and for one of our industry’s talented creators—the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London has acquired the first sgian dubh to enter its permanent collection, crafted by Ellis Mhairi Cameron.
Sgian dubh, which is Gaelic for “black knife,” is a small ceremonial knife worn as part of traditional Highlands dress, symbolizing lineage and personal protection. Cameron, in collaboration with master bladesmith Simon Maillet, created five contemporary reimaginings of the sgian dubh, blending heritage, fine jewelry, and master craftsmanship. The makings of the collection can be traced to Cameron’s discovery of pieces of ancient weaponry (dating back to the 1700s) on her family’s farmland.
The designer’s signature aesthetic, evident in organic-style diamond pieces often inspired by Scottish culture and landscape, is seen in her sgian dubh, some with textured surfaces, others intricate engravings. Set with old-cut round and baguette diamonds and featuring Cameron’s recognizable markings, the knives—named with the Roman numerals I through V—took more than 20 hours to create.
The knife acquired by V&A is “built with a three-layer san-mai construction: a core of 52100 steel, with vintage iron from Sheffield,” Cameron shared on Instagram. “This particular piece is texturally engraved and set with a scattering of antique old-cut diamonds.”
Along with the sgian dubh, the museum acquired Cameron’s sketchbook detailing the creation of the series. V&A will keep Cameron’s sgian dubh in its metalwork gallery.
“This is a proud and historic moment for Scotland,” Cameron said in a statement. “To see a piece of our national dress represented in the V&A’s permanent collection is a powerful recognition of both our cultural heritage and the value of contemporary Scottish craftsmanship.”
Those interested in a bespoke commission can inquire directly with Cameron’s studio.
Top: The sgian dubh acquired by London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, created by Scottish jeweler Ellis Mhairi Cameron in collaboration with self-taught master bladesmith Simon Maillet
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