Sabyasachi and the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced a multi-year collaboration on Tuesday, and its first release—six-pieces of Byzantine-derived high jewelry—will debut on a New York Fashion Week runway September 15.

The jewelry itself befits the Indian fashion house’s reputation for luxury as it bursts with gold and gemstones yet its imagery still feels grounded in everyday human experiences like love, mortality, and the changing of the seasons.

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee and the Met said in a statement that their goal is to connect the Met’s historic artworks to the modern era as filtered through the Sabyasachi lens.

Sabyasachi selected imperial medallions, architectural elements, ancient statuary, and religious iconography from the Met’s artwork to draw inspiration. The six-piece collection includes a set of earrings, two wrist cuffs, and three necklaces. In the inspiration video, Mukherjee explains he wanted to start the collaboration with jewelry because it would be the most difficult part of the project.

The gold and gemstones Mukherjee selected as well as the source materials he used as his starting point are what make this high jewelry collection memorable. All of the pieces use a combination of 18k and 22k gold. Each is a feast for the eyes thanks to his use of gemstones like round brilliant-cut diamonds as well as tourmaline, lapis lazuli, jasper, onyx, and jade.

As beautiful as each piece is, it is the selection of artwork Mukherjee used and how he adapted it within his own jewelry that stays with the viewer. There’s the pendant necklace inspired by a marble sculpture depicting a family—the mother and father gaze out with peaceful expressions, and it feels like they are holding their two children close to their hearts in a show of family unity.

Another standout piece is the tiger claw necklace. Its surface is studded with chunky cabochons of jade and tourmaline, their smooth surface balanced by the rough texture of the claw. Its off-center presentation makes it that much more chic and contemporary, offering that contrast to its original inspiration: a 12th century casket whose lid features images of children and animals in various states of play and fighting.

The way the high jewelry is presented in images is intriguing as well. The models are dressed simply in red gowns with minimal makeup and hair styling, some wearing oversized hats or sunglasses befitting a celebrity. As a result, the ornate, oversized jewelry feels like you could see it on anyone sitting at a Parisian sidewalk café or walking along Madison Avenue—truly achieving what the collaboration sought to do.

“This collaboration is about engaging with one of the world’s great collections of art and
the opportunity to reinterpret centuries of creativity through contemporary design,”
Mukherjee said in a statement.

“The Byzantine world was not defined by a single geography. It was shaped by the movement of people, ideas, and craftsmanship across continents including India. What fascinates me is not only Byzantium itself, but the civilizations that informed it and the extraordinary artistic dialogue that emerged from interactions through trade.

“I find similarities to my home, Calcutta, itself a commercial hub influenced by trade and exchange. Through this collaboration, we are able to transform historic inspiration into modern interpretations that feel relevant, beautiful, and desirable today.”

Sabyasachi as a brand is known for its bridal, high jewelry, and textile collections as well as its international collaborations with brands including H&M and Christian Louboutin. The designer’s work frequently shows up on red carpets like the Met Gala and on “best dressed” lists worldwide.

The high jewelry in this first Sabyasachi x the Met collaboration was conceived, developed, and handcrafted in India by Sabyasachi’s master artisans. Mukherjee said in a statement that he wants this project to highlight not only his work, but his long-term effort to put India’s craftspeople across history and their contributions to art and luxury into the spotlight.

Select pieces will be available at the Sabyasachi New York City flagship store, the brand’s other global boutiques, as well as select specialty retailers. No prices were available for the six-piece collection at press time.

Top: Pendant necklace in 18k and 22k gold studded with jasper, onyx, and jade, inspired by an 11th century German book cover plaque featuring a lion, the symbol of Saint Mark. (Photos courtesy of Sabyasachi and the Met)

• Subscribe to the JCK News Daily
• Subscribe to the JCK Special Report
• Follow JCK on Instagram: @jckmagazine
• Follow JCK on X: @jckmagazine
• Follow JCK on Facebook: @jckmagazine