197-Ct. Romanov Sapphire Leads Sotheby’s Royal Jewels Auction

By JCK News Desk | November 04, 2026

A 197.8 ct. sapphire that once belonged to Russia’s Romanov dynasty will lead an auction of royal and noble jewels at Sotheby’s Geneva on Nov. 11.

The nearly 80-lot sale brings together jewelry connected with numerous royal and aristocratic families, including the Romanovs and the Houses of Orléans and Braganza.

The top lot, known as the Romanov Sapphire (pictured at top), is an unheated Ceylon sapphire worn by the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna at the Winter Palace Ball of 1903. The stone was documented among the Russian crown jewels before being dispersed by the Soviet government following the Russian Revolution. It later belonged to opera singer and collector Ganna Walska before being acquired by Cartier, which created its current bracelet setting with interchangeable rock crystal center in 2015.

The Romanov Sapphire is estimated at 850,000–1,700,000 Swiss francs (approximately $1,030,000-$2,060,500). Reports from SSEF and Gübelin confirm the stone’s Ceylon origin and unheated status.

Devonshire black opal tiara created by Cartier London for Mary Cavendish — *Devonshire black opal and diamond tiara/necklace-brooch combination, created by Cartier London for Mary Cavendish*

Another major lot is a transformable black opal and diamond jewel created by Cartier London in the late 1930s for Mary Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire. Designed to be worn as a necklace, tiara, or series of detachable brooches, the piece—featuring Australian black opals and old mine–, old Euro–, and single-cut diamonds—was worn by the duchess at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. Sotheby’s estimates it at 780,000–1,100,000 Swiss francs ($945,400–$1,333,300).

Also going on the block is a toi et moi ring formerly owned by Catherine, Lady Walston, set with a 7.83 ct. unheated cabochon Kashmir sapphire and 6.77 ct. cabochon Colombian emerald, estimated at 350,000–500,000 Swiss francs ($425,000–$606,000). Two emerald and diamond jewels once belonging to Queen Amélie of Portugal, each estimated at 70,000–100,000 Swiss francs ($85,000–$121,200), also are included.

*The Mellerio Orléans tiara, detachable to be worn as a necklace*

Other highlights include a diamond tiara by Mellerio dits Meller that was first exhibited at the International Exhibition of 1862. Two years later, Antoine d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier, purchased it as a wedding gift for his daughter, Marie Isabelle d’Orléans, when she married Philippe d’Orléans, Count of Paris. It carries an estimate of 300,000–500,000 Swiss francs ($363,600–$606,000).

The sale also features a circa 1910 sapphire and diamond necklace and earrings once owned by Princess Sibylla of Sweden, the mother of the current Swedish monarch, Carl XVI Gustaf.

Necklace and pair of earrings set with diamonds and graduated cabochon sapphires — *Demi-parure with graduated cabochon sapphires and old European–, single-, and rose-cut diamonds*

The necklace was given to Sibylla by Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria as a wedding gift in 1932, and family tradition holds that its sapphires previously belonged to Maria Feodorovna. Sotheby’s estimates the set at 300,000–500,000 Swiss francs ($363,600–$606,000).

The JCK News Desk uses AI to help research and produce the first draft of articles. This story was then reviewed by staff writer David Blomquist.