Annual antiques, art, and design fair the Philadelphia Show kicks off April 28 and runs through April 30—and it will be full of jewels from some of the world’s most established antique jewelers. Below, we’ve enlisted experts from a few of them to speak to the jewelry highlights at the upcoming show.
“Kentshire is pleased to bring a pair of iconic gold and diamond ‘Angel Hair’—or Cheveux d’Ange—bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels, France, circa 1955, to the Philadelphia Show. The pair can be worn as bracelets or combined together as a necklace to stunning effect,” says Carrie Imberman, co-president of Kentshire.
“We are bringing a wonderful selection of jewelry with an emphasis on pieces made with old mine stones…demantoids, Colombian emeralds, Burmese rubies, Montana sapphires. The older material—stones that are no longer mined—is the only way to get high quality, vibrancy, depth of color, and clarity. This is what is important to people, and we find that jewelry with big old stones is the most sought-after,” says Adam Patrick, manager at A La Vieille Russie.
Among the “exceptional pieces with old mine stones that will be at the Philadelphia Show are…a charming frog brooch made with the most vibrant demantoids that were mined in the Ural Mountains in the late 19th century. You cannot get this quality of the color today,” Patrick adds.
“The 1960s monumental bombé cluster ring is set with seven rare and phenomenally beautiful Ceylon moonstones. These old stones mined in Sri Lanka are colorless and have a floating blue color that seems to hover above the stone,” explains Patrick.
“The deeply saturated color of an art deco coral cross and necklace set is one that will never be found again,” Patrick says. “It’s truly one of a kind and something that could not be duplicated.”
With their steely blue color, Montana sapphires—as used in this pansy brooch—”were considered the finest precious gemstones ever found in the United States,” according to Patrick.
“Coming to Philadelphia this April, we are pleased to highlight two examples of fine and unique artistry among prominent American jewelers,” says James Boening, director of James Robinson. “First: a finely fashioned gold bangle bracelet made by Tiffany & Co. circa 1860. The bangle is of neoclassical bead and wire work, symmetrical motif work around the front and back, in very fine condition, and in its original fitted box stamped with one of their early addresses at 550–552 Broadway—what we now know as SoHo’s main drag.
“Second is a small but impressive oval-pierced gold brooch with an opal and seed pearls, made by Marcus & Co. circa 1900,” Boening continues. “Herman Marcus and his son William were well acquainted with trends in European jewelry design at a level of sophistication and finesse that made them a mainstay in firms like Tiffany and Starr & Marcus, where Herman was partnered. The color palette of the brooch evokes imagery of Louis Comfort [Tiffany]’s favorite opalescent creations, along with those of John La Farge.”
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