This season, pearls continue to perform as designers reinterpret the classic gem through unexpected pairings and modern forms. From Marei New York’s sexy Damian Horn Talisman collection to Mikimoto’s romantic Les Pétales Place Vendôme Rosés capsule and Imperial Pearl’s innovative lab-grown diamond line, the latest introductions showcase pearls’ versatility and enduring allure.
Marei New York’s Damian Horn Talisman collection
The pearl styles in Marei New York’s Damian Horn Talisman collection are the embodiment of the adage opposites attract. Centered on the horn talisman, also known as cornicello (Italian for the Devil’s Horn), the 18k gold designs revel in a seductive contrast. Between the sharp, masculine angles of the horn, which hangs from a 16-inch gold chain, and the soft, feminine curves of the pearl choker, there’s no mistaking why the combination has lately proved irresistible.
Mikimoto’s Les Pétales Place Vendôme Rosés
In late September, Mikimoto unveiled a collection of fine jewels that reimagines its Les Pétales High Jewelry collection, introduced in Paris in July, in wearable designs, more suited to the every day—though describing the long triple-strand pearl necklace seen below as “everyday” is borderline criminal.
Called Les Pétales Place Vendôme Rosés, the extended collection is a celebration of rose petals, and features akoya cultured pearls paired with 18k pink gold petals in a number of new styles, including a bracelet, long earrings, a choker, and the aforementioned necklace. The line nods to Mikimoto’s long history of using petals and flowers as recurring motifs.
Imperial Pearl’s as-yet-unnamed pearl and lab-grown diamond line
At the JCK Las Vegas show in June, Imperial Pearl unveiled a line that represents an important new direction for the East Providence, R.I.–based pearl supplier: a pearl and lab-grown diamond collection featuring classic designs “that are lovely and safe and salable,” according to Kathy Grenier, the company’s vice president of business development. “But then we elevated it by focusing on mixed-shape stones such as emeralds, pears, and marquises.”
The collection, which hasn’t been named yet, spans four capsules that each tell their own story. “One is your basics: long linear, delicate V-necks, or the classic Tin Cup,” Grenier says. “Then we segue to similar designs but with pear shapes—there’s a big pear story. Then we have mixed shapes, which are eclectic, edgier designs but still very wearable. And we do have some serious pieces, like a whole strand of freshwaters with graduated baguettes—drop-dead, very sophisticated, for a bride who’s worldly or of a certain age.”
Ninety percent of the line will feature akoya cultured pearls, reflecting Imperial’s “commitment to fine jewelry yet in a fun, fashion-forward kind of way,” Grenier says. “Because anybody can buy freshwater pearls but not everybody can get their hands on beautiful akoyas.”
Top: Necklace and earrings in 14k white gold with freshwater pearls and lab-grown diamonds, $6,269 and $4,153; Imperial Pearl
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