Christie’s will hold its 85th jewelry sale in Geneva, Switzerland, on May 13 at the Four Seasons, Hotel des Bergues with a selection of more than 200 lots that includes natural pearls, diamonds, and jewels signed by the renowned jewelry houses throughout Europe from the 1920s to the modern day.

Among the items for sale is a natural black pearl necklace with a diamond clasp by Cartier with an estimated auction price of $130,942 – $196,413. In addition, a three-row white natural pearl necklace on a Cartier clasp (estimate: $109,121 – $165,865).

Other pearl items for sale include a Belle Epoque bandeau set with natural pearls (estimate: $27,931 – $36,660) and a pair of pearl and diamond ear pendants exhibit a triangular geometry characteristic of the Art Deco period to which they date (estimate: $65,464 – $87,265).

Among the diamond offerings is a rectangular-cut diamond ring weighing 30.52 cts. of D color flawless clarity, excellent symmetry and polish, and no fluorescence (estimate on request). Another diamond for sale weighing over 30 carats, is a pear-shaped, D color, internally flawless clarity stone set as a ring by Cartier (estimate: SFr. $2.18 million – $2.6 million).

The sale also includes two diamonds in the 20-ct. range. The first is a 20.46 cts, rectangular-cut, D color diamond ring (estimate: $1.1 million – $1.5 million) which is accompanied by a note from the Gemological Institute of America that this diamond is a Type II a, the ‘Golconda’ type, labeling it as the purest diamond type known. The second is a 20.02 cts. oval-shaped, fancy-vivid-yellow diamond set as a pendant that can be also worn as a brooch (estimate: $2.18 million – $2.6 million).

The “mystery setting” technique of Van Cleef & Arpels, developed during the early 1920s and eventually patented by the company in 1933, is on full display with two offerings at the auction. The first is a ruby and diamond ‘Pavot’ clip brooch that appears almost animated with movement (estimate: $78,472 – $104,629). The second is a diamond and sapphire ‘Deux Feuilles’ brooch that curls round at the edges (estimate: $43,592 -$70,000).

JCK