Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo Ladies First Collection and New Grand Complication in Milan

By Victoria Gomelsky | October 02, 2026

MILAN — On Oct. 2 in Milan, the Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe opened its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition to the public at the historic CityOval building, formerly Palazzo delle Scintille. The Geneva-based brand used the occasion to introduce seven limited-edition wristwatches, a bevy of rare handcrafted timepieces, and a new collection of women’s watches dubbed Gondolo Ladies First.

At 2,900 square meters, or 9,514 square feet, the Milan event, which runs through Oct. 18, is the largest exhibition ever organized by the brand. It continues a tradition that began in 2012, when Patek Philippe held its first grand exhibition in Dubai. Subsequent editions have been held in Munich, London, New York, Singapore, and Tokyo.

“Look at the size,” Thierry Stern, the brand’s president, told a group of journalists on Wednesday, during a press preview. “When I started 36 years ago, I never dreamed of such a beautiful exhibition. My father was the one who pushed to have such an exhibition. To share the passion of fine watchmaking, to give pleasure not only to collectors but also normal people having pleasure of seeing something beautiful. It’s not about selling something. I hope with this type of exhibition the world will know more about Patek Philippe.”

Featuring more than 500 timepieces—including seven limited-edition models in a special Milano collection, 25 rare handcrafted timepieces, 152 models from the current collection, 21 minute repeaters, six watches from Patek’s advanced research department, and 99 historic pieces on loan from the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva—the exhibition offers an essential snapshot of the brand’s past, present, and future.

Patek Philippe Gondolo 7043 250GR — *Gondolo Ladies First Ref. 7043/250GR* *in 31 x 34.8 mm 18k rose gold case, $68,768; patek.com*

And if we’re reading the signs right, that future is female. Stern acknowledged as much at a cocktail celebration on Wednesday, when the new Gondolo Ladies First collection—which includes six quartz-powered, cushion-shape models in two diamond-set executions—was unveiled. He said that while women have always bought Patek men’s watches, the time had come for a new dedicated offering.

“We are selling Nautilus, Aquanaut, or complicated men’s watches to ladies and they are changing the strap, the color, and then it becomes a beautiful ladies’ watch. But now I would like to be more aggressive,” he said.

The Gondolo Ladies First line pays homage to the brand’s longstanding collection of shaped watches, created in 1902 as the Chronometro Gondolo for the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau and then revived in 1993 as a collection inspired by early-20th‑century art deco design.

Patek Philippe 5978 — *Instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 5978P in 42 mm platinum case, price on request*

The Gondolos weren’t the only talking pieces of the event. Patek also unveiled its new men’s grand complication, a new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph with aperture displays (Ref. 5978P-010).

“What I like about this new reference is that at midnight you have suddenly a click—it’s unbelievable for me to see that everything moves in the frame milliseconds at precisely midnight,” Stern said. “It’s alive.”

Patek Philippe 5077 100G — *Ref. 5077/100G Calatrava wristwatch in 18k white gold case with dial in *champlevé and* *paillonné* enamel and hand-engraved sapphire crystal, price on request*

The highlight of the event for many visitors will be the Rare Handcrafts collection, composed of the brand’s coveted Dome Clocks, pocket watches, wristwatches, and desk clocks featuring artisanal techniques such as miniature painting on enamel, cloisonné enamel, hand engraving, micro wood marquetry, hand-executed guilloché work, and gem setting. In keeping with tradition, the theme of the rare handcraft pieces introduced at the grand exhibitions reflects the host country. For the Milan event, the pieces all have been inspired by Italian culture—including a “Sicilian Oranges” Dome Clock featuring a view of the city of Palermo, rendered in cloisonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel.

Patek Philippe 20179M-001 dome clock — *“Sicilian Oranges” Dome Clock Ref. 20179M-001, price on request*

In his closing remarks, Stern underscored the importance of the Italian market to Patek Philippe in particular and Swiss watchmaking in general. “If a watch is working in Italy, it should work worldwide,” he said. “My father always told me that, and it’s still true today. And launching a new collection here, especially the ladies’ collection, seems to be quite logical. I don’t know how I can explain that, but there is something quite nice to launch such a beautiful ladies’ product here.”

Top: Gondolo Ladies First Ref. 7043R in 31 x 34.8 mm 18k rose gold case, $37,510; patek.com