
Pacharee Sophie Rogers was vacationing on the Spanish island of Menorca with her family in April when her 2-year-old son picked her a flower. “I was fascinated by the explosion of delicate, fine lines in its shape, and immediately thought of the Birch pearls,” says the Swiss-Thai designer behind the brand Pacharee, referring to a collection of Japanese freshwater pearls that come in long, rod-like shapes, which she nicknamed Birch pearls. “That became the starting point for the design.”
The Birch Floral earrings that resulted from that chance encounter are, like much of Pacharee’s work with pearls, unconventional.
“I love introducing our clients to different and unexpected types of pearls, some of which we’ve even given our own names, such as Petal Pearls and Birch Pearls,” Rogers tells JCK. “I’m particularly drawn to mother-of-pearl because of its clean, modern aesthetic and versatility. We can cut, carve, and work with it in so many different dimensions. I think of it almost as a beautiful blank canvas, which we can then bring to life with sculptural gold details and finishing touches.”

Born and raised in Thailand, Rogers was immersed in the world of pearls and gemstones as a child thanks to her father, Gerald Vincent Rogers, a renowned gemologist who developed new stone-cutting and heat-treatment techniques and helped pioneer the farming of mabe pearls.
Having spent her childhood accompanying him on gem and pearl trading trips, Rogers developed a relationship with these materials long before she became a designer.

“While I grew up surrounded by this, I chose my own path and went into advertising for years,” she says. “When I fell pregnant with my first daughter, I wanted to start my own brand inspired by handwoven fabrics. One week before the shoot, I designed some jewelry as props for the shoot. I posted the images and received lots of enquiries into the jewelry.”

Pacharee’s collection, which is available in 18k gold–plated silver or solid 18k gold, is defined by contrasts, such as the combination of delicate, feminine pearls with an unexpected, modern aesthetic. Take her Mare Polka Dot earrings. Inspired by a shell Rogers found in a souvenir shop in Phang Nga, Thailand, the gold statement earrings feature a scattering of white freshwater pearls. Her initial necklaces incorporate mother-of-pearl, adding an unusual touch to a classic letter jewel.

Rather than working with classic pearls in traditional round shapes, Pacharee seeks out unusual silhouettes, textured surfaces, curves, bumps, and natural imperfections. She then creates a design to complement the pearl.
“Growing up, I watched my father trade extraordinary pearls from Japan with jewelry houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co.,” Rogers says. “He was particularly fascinated by keshi and Biwa pearls, and I think that fascination stayed with me. There’s something about the unusual shapes and textures of these pearls that I find incredibly beautiful.”
Top: Birch Floral earrings in 18 gold–plated silver with freshwater pearls, €520 ($584); Pacharee
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