A number of new styles at the Jan. 19–24 VicenzaOro Winter 2013 show were designed to hit a price point. Here’s a quick list of some of the items I saw and why you should be aware of them.
9k Gold: High-end jeweler Garavelli stunned many market editors this year with the introduction of 9k gold. “We just have one test piece in 9 karat gold,” says co-owner Elisabetta Molina. “So I don’t know yet if we’ll go forward with production.” The move was made because of the cost of gold; so far, Molina suspects that the pieces may appeal to the Japanese, but isn’t sure about Americans. The material is available in yellow and rose gold, and costs 40 percent less than 18k gold. Chain manufacturer S.A.L.P. also showed 9k gold in its booth windows, and 9k gold is a staple in the line of Laurent Gandini. Chic American designers such as Me&Ro already offer 10k gold, so the fact that it was on display in Italy is something to keep in mind.
A 9k rose gold and jet necklace from Garavelli costs 40 percent less than one made in 18k gold.
Silver and Nylon: Italian firm Pesavento—which currently has no accounts in the U.S. but is looking to break into the market—debuted nylon thread and silver wire jewels starting at €350 ($470). Necklaces and bracelets have magnetic clasps, and while the pieces look as though they could easily catch on clothes, the feel of them is surprisingly silky. The looks reminded me of Carolina Bucci’s woven styles, but hit a lower price point because they’re made in silver.
Silver and nylon necklace from Pesavento
Silver and Gold Plate With Precious Stones and CZ: Three-year-old Spanish brand Bohemme already has an established client base in Russia, and is hoping to break into other markets, including the United States. (In fact, the line launched stateside at JCK Las Vegas 2012.) Its niche is well-made bridge—silver and gold plate with precious stones and CZ (all melee is CZ while larger stones are natural gems)—that’s made in Córdoba, Spain, and starts at $400 retail. Sixteen U.S. stores, including Jewelry by the Bay in Sausalito, Calif., already carry the line, which has a minimum buy-in of about 25 pieces or $5,000. Designer Antonio Espaliú Berdud comes from a fine jewelry–making family, but he created his own line to offer more accessible price points. A clever note about the collection: Each ring is made with a fitting band that permits wearers to adjust fit up to two sizes up for immediate ease of wear.
Silver and gold plate jewelry with natural gems and CZ from Bohemme of Spain
Vermeil With Glass: Agiemme offers 18k gold vermeil styles with flat cuts of stone and glass for a stained-glass effect in jewels with retail prices at €80. The pieces are pretty and well made, and offer a big look for the money.
Gold plate and glass jewels from Agiemme
Silver and Gold Plate With Diamonds. The Elastic Diamond line from Vai Milano features cord bracelets with silver and 18k gold plate jewels set with 0.02 ct. t.w. diamonds with a starting retail price of €59 each. They remind me of diaStrings, but at even lower prices, and will appeal to a wide range of customers. While I was at the booth, a distributor in Australia was placing an order for its stores.
Elastic Diamonds are cord bracelets with silver and 18k gold plate jewels set with 0.02 ct. t.w. diamonds that start at €59 retail.
Rubber With Diamonds: The Duepunti line from Vai Milano—which is distributed in the United States by the Blue White Group—comprises rubber and diamonds, and is carried in the U.S. by Macy’s and Kitson. While rubber and diamonds are not a new concept, this colorful line is particularly chic.
Rubber and diamonds from Duepunti from Vai Malano
Reconstituted Coral and Turquoise With Gold and Diamonds: Gika Gioielli calls its Pisi Pisi line “coral paste” (there was a language barrier during my chat) set with diamonds and 18k gold, so I think this material consists of reconstituted gemstones. The line is not yet in the U.S., though it does sell in Russia; diamond sizes range from 0.015 ct. t.w. to 0.03 ct. t.w. in prices of €26–€70. The styles feature a clever use of low-quality gems in styles that are cute, colorful, diamond-accented, and perhaps even original. (I’ve never seen reconstituted stones set with diamonds, have you?)
Jewels made of reconstituted gems and set with 18k gold and diamonds from Gika Gioielli
Quartz-Dusted Finishes Bonded to Metal: I saw this material from Rebecca last fall, but then a bit more at VicenzaOro Winter 2012. A few vendors were showing it again this year, including Pesavento and Ricci S.A.S (firstname.lastname@example.org). It’s a cool shimmery look that is bonded to metals and is laser-cut for additional effect. The silver and bronze styles from Ricci start at €80, such as for the earrings shown. It’s a neat look that speaks to other glittery accessories on the market today.
Quartz-dusted, laser-cut earrings in silver by Ricci S.A.S. retail for €80.
Silver and Gold Plate With Resin: The Padovani line is distributed by Invicta and features resin and silver and 24k gold-plated pieces; retail prices start at €60. This line—which offers cute looks that aren’t commonly seen by U.S. shoppers—was brand-new to the fair this year.
The Padovani line distributed by Invicta features resin in silver and gold plate.
Colored Metal With Stones: Colored bronze tennis bracelets from Staurino Particolari Preziosi are set with CZ, come in cute clear test-tube packaging, and retail for €89 each (bands cost just €39). Available in 12 different colors, the maker calls the finish an “elettróforesi” process or “galvanic technique”—similar to a car-painting process. The Blanche line from Marroni Design (owner Roberto Marroni sells diamond styles to Barneys) also had this material. The look stops you in your tracks, and the prices are very easy on the wallet.
Colored silver and CZ Tennis bracelets from Staurino Particolari Preziosi
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