VicenzaOro is being resuscitated. For years it seemed like the show’s energy and offerings were flagging, with few exciting pieces and buyers to help drive momentum forward. But with Matteo Marzotto coming on as Fiera di Vicenza president last year and joining Corrado Facco, existing general director, a new show layout and subtle updates to the decor may prove to be the refresher that the 69-year-old fair needed. Here are six jewelry-trend observations from my time walking the show floor, and why I think they matter.
Endless Jewelry–style wrap leather bracelets. These were positively everywhere! Endless is not the first to offer these—I recall seeing them years ago at Baselworld from Copenhagen-based Ole Lynggaard and a few other European vendors, but the Danish firm is now moving full-speed ahead with the idea to make them available to the mass market. You can get high end or more price-point accessible styles from a wide variety of firms.
Lifestyle options. First and foremost, think handbags from Tous, Le Vian, Tirisi, and more. Tous is also offering sunglasses and fragrances, while Le Vian debuted shoes and scarves. This is a case of the jewelry brands following in the footsteps of big fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton and Bulgari.
Layering. The Italians are loading up necklines, wrists, and ears with all manner of accessories. For example, long station necklaces can complement a choker, while multiple earring holes were filled to capacity on the lobes. The Endless-variety multistrand leather bracelets already speak to this trend. A word of caution: Keep balance in mind when blending all.
Butterflies. This motif was widespread in collections. Look to Isabelle Langlois and Nardelli, among others, for new offerings. Butterflies may be a holdover from last year, when the 2014 pre-fall Valentino collection showed them in abundance, causing some American jewelry designers to take up their cause in spring 2014 collections. Now playing catch-up, the Italians are taking them seriously for 2015.
Cabochons. These smooth-surface domes and flat slabs could be seen in many new offerings, including a long station necklace from RCM. Cabs speak to the casual trend happening in spring 2015 fashion and allow jewelers to utilize stones with great colors and interesting inclusions. In general, cabs are less formal and can be less expensive than faceted stones and will appeal to fans of understated aesthetics.
Clever mosaic effects with tiny stones. I spied these on American soil before I hit the Italian fair, but the Italians are embracing the looks, too. These are an affordable way to use abundant cuts of small stones—under 0.1 ct. t.w.—to build a big look and challenge the creative set to make beautiful pieces with price-point-friendly small stones. The results, like little gemstone rings from Bizzotto, commanded a lot of likes on social media.
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